Compatibility of vegetables in the garden. Neighborhood of vegetable crops
A wide variety of vegetable crops are grown on the dacha plot. They belong to different families, and their planting dates do not coincide. In small gardens, compacted cultivation is used. How to ensure the compatibility of vegetable crops in one bed in a limited space?
Good predecessors
Every year, before the start of the gardening season, you should carefully consider the placement of plants in the garden. It is best to create a planting plan that will be useful for the coming season. Different ones can oppress each other or contribute to the spread of dangerous diseases. However, compatible plants, on the contrary, will contribute better development and protect from pests. To avoid mistakes, you must follow certain rules.
The area for compacted planting provides additional nutrition for the increased volume of plants. To do this, the soil must be sufficiently fertile and clean. At the beginning of the season, crop rotation is planned. Plants that were grown last year should not have the same pathogens and pests. At the same time, they must have a beneficial effect on each other, so the compatibility of plants in the garden is important. The best predecessor table is a guide to start planning.
An analysis of last year's plantings is carried out. The right choice will help you avoid many unpleasant moments when growing vegetables.
Predecessor table
When cultivating any crops, crop rotation should be observed. The information presented in the table will help you plan the site correctly.
Vegetable crop | The best predecessors |
Solanaceae | Legumes, cabbage, cucumbers |
Solanaceae |
|
Onion garlic | Peas, cabbage, radishes |
Sweet corn | Potatoes, cabbage, legumes |
Sweet pepper | Cucumbers, beets, carrots, rutabaga, cabbage |
Table beet | Cabbage, potatoes, cucumbers |
Umbrella | Peas, cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes |
Repeatedly growing a plant in one place is also undesirable.
Layout
When cultivating vegetable crops, information is needed about their mutual influence. To avoid an unfavorable neighborhood, you need to know exactly the characteristics of vegetable crops. Acceptable growing conditions for plants that will be combined must be similar. This will help to accurately plan the entire area for the garden and achieve successful cultivation of various plants in compacted beds. In addition, certain crops not only have a beneficial effect, but also repel pests. The compatibility of plants in the garden is quite important. A detailed list of representatives of different families that coexist well in the garden helps to accurately determine their placement. Equally important is information about plants with which joint cultivation is undesirable. They will suppress vegetable crops growing nearby.
Plant compatibility table
For the normal development of vegetables and obtaining a high-quality harvest, they need to create favorable conditions. Proper agricultural technology combined with a successful combination of plants will help solve many problems. The data given in the table will be useful when placing plants on the site.
Successful combinations
When planning sowings, you should take into account the time of development of the usable area, the height and compatibility of plants in the garden. Carrots and onions go well together. They are placed in rows. Alternate three rows of carrots with four rows of onions. These plants have a beneficial effect on each other and at the same time protect against pests. A trio of plants will be successful. These are late white cabbage, head lettuce and spinach, which are used to compact garden beds. You can name other examples of combinations of vegetables that have good compatibility between plants in the garden. The table will help everyone find the best pair. For example, early cabbage and celery, which have different planting dates. At the beginning of spring, seedlings of the first vegetable crop are planted. The distance when planting early cabbage is maintained at least fifty centimeters. Three weeks later, celery is added. Plants with different ripening periods go very well together. in the garden in this case is based on the fact that early ripening crops are placed along the edge of the beds of plants whose ripening period is longer. For example, a combination of planting tomatoes with several rows of dill for greens and onions for feathers, as well as spinach, will not interfere with the longer development of tomato bushes. The classic combination is corn and string beans. In this example, one plant serves as a trellis for another.
Lighthouse cultures
Many plants have a long period of seed germination. To designate rows of such a vegetable crop earlier, quickly germinating and early-ripening plants are used. They allow for more early dates begin soil cultivation and agrotechnical activities. An example is the joint sowing of radishes and carrots. By the time it takes for the root crop to ripen, the early and early-ripening vegetable has time to ripen and free up space. In addition to radishes, lettuce, spinach and dill are used. They are sown along the edge of a bed of cucumbers, tomatoes and peppers.
Amulets of vegetable plantings
Aromatic herbs are not forgotten either. These plants are fragrant, creating an amazing atmosphere around. Vegetables located nearby become more stable under the influence of volatile substances. They are able to repel pests. Medicinal plants such as valerian and yarrow, planted along the edge of the beds, will be an excellent preventive measure that increases resistance to diseases. Lettuce and spinach are plants that can enhance the activity of neighbors. They will be good companions and have excellent plant compatibility in the garden. The table of successful combinations of vegetable crops confirms this statement. Lettuce and spinach are often recommended for joint cultivation with other vegetable crops.
Unfavorable neighborhood
Most plants get along well in the limited space of beds. When placing them, the compatibility of plants in the garden is taken into account. A table of successful combinations of vegetable crops will help to distribute them correctly. However, we should not forget about plants that will have a depressing effect on others. These include fennel and wormwood. For these vegetable crops, it is necessary to allocate a separate corner of the garden, which will provide privacy.
Many gardeners take great responsibility when growing vegetables, herbs and fruits. They follow all agricultural practices and apply all modern drugs and fertilizers for best result, constantly fight weeds and pests. But sometimes, despite the maximum amount of effort, the harvest is not satisfactory. Why does this happen? There is also such a thing as vegetable compatibility. This is a very important factor that must be taken into account.
The importance of vegetable compatibility
When planting plants in the garden, it is very important to take into account the proximity of plants and know their predecessors. Many cultures are incompatible and can oppress each other. The size of the plants and their mode of growth also play a big role. Taking into account all these factors, you can use the garden area more rationally, which is especially important when it is small.
Planting plan
Focusing on the compatibility of vegetables, you need to draw up a planting plan in advance. It is better to start compiling it in the winter, before the onset of field work. Different parts of the land may differ in fertility. This must also be taken into account when distributing crops. Among plants there are strong consumers of nutrients and weak ones. They must be swapped periodically. All vegetables have different ripening times. This can be used to rationally use the land so that it does not stand idle. But the most important factor is the compatibility of vegetables in the garden. It greatly influences the future harvest. Therefore, using the information from this article, plan future plantings taking into account all factors.
Nutrient requirements of vegetables
The nutrient requirements of plants greatly influence the compatibility of vegetables. This indicator is different for all cultures. All plants can be divided into three conditional categories. Heavy consumers are vegetables that require large amounts of nitrogen. These include almost all types of cabbage, chard, tomatoes, onions, zucchini, peppers, pumpkin and cucumbers. Average consumers are carrots, radishes, kohlrabi, potatoes, beets, eggplants, field lettuce, endive, spinach and head lettuce. And finally, peas, radishes, herbs, beans and spices are weak consumers of nutrients. When arranging vegetables in the garden bed, you need to take this factor into account and place them depending on the saturation of the site and its predecessor. This will help increase productivity.
Carrot
Carrots are found very often in our areas. Almost every gardener grows this crop. When planting it, you also need to take into account the compatibility of vegetables. Thus, carrots grow well next to peas, radishes, spinach and lettuce. This vegetable gets along very well next to some types of onions (leeks, onions and perennials). These two vegetables protect each other from pests. It is not advisable to plant carrots next to parsley, dill and celery. Very often dill is sown on its own; it is worth planting it once on the site. But this is an undesirable neighborhood for carrots. Therefore, it is better to remove it from the garden and use it for its intended purpose.
Eggplant
The vegetable compatibility table (see below) is very important for every gardener, especially beginners. Subsequently, with experience will come knowledge about the characteristics of each culture. Eggplant is another common vegetable. It grows well next to crops such as beans, peppers, and peas. You should not plant eggplants next to cucumbers. This is not a very good neighborhood. There are conflicting opinions about contact during growth with other nightshade crops. Some fairly experienced gardeners believe that such a neighborhood is appropriate and gives excellent results. The opinion of others is exactly the opposite. They believe that planting eggplants near other nightshades results in poor harvests.
Beans
If we consider the compatibility of vegetables in the garden, then the best neighbors for many crops are beans. They repel Colorado potato beetles. Also, beans, thanks to nodule bacteria, accumulate a sufficient amount of nitrogen on their roots and enrich the soil. Potatoes, corn, cucumbers, spinach, radishes and radishes get along well next to them. However, beans should be planted around the perimeter of the potato plot. In turn, basil should be placed next to the beans, which will protect them from weevil.
Cabbage
Cabbage is a very good neighbor for many crops, so finding a place for it on the plot is quite easy. Next to it you can plant carrots, beets, beans, celery, cucumbers, beans, strawberries, leeks and tomatoes. It is not advisable to place white and red cabbage next to each other. Parsley and dill take root very well next to this vegetable. Kohlrabi is special kind cabbage It is planted next to asparagus, peas, radishes, potatoes and beans. It is not advisable to place kohlrabi with horseradish, garlic and tomatoes in the same bed.
Cucumbers and zucchini
Zucchini and cucumbers are considered related plants. However, there are some differences. The compatibility of cucumbers with other vegetables is slightly different from the compatibility of zucchini. Cucumbers get along well with peas, beans, beets, onions, cabbage, kohlrabi, fennel, basil and dill. It is not recommended to plant this vegetable with eggplants, tomatoes, potatoes, radishes, watercress and radishes. For zucchini, lettuce, spinach, beans, onions and peas will be excellent allies in the garden. They should not be placed next to tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers, parsley, pumpkin and radishes. The compatibility of growing vegetables is very important for a good harvest. As you can see, related crops, zucchini and cucumbers, do not get along well with each other.
Onion
The best neighbor for onions is carrots. These two vegetables protect each other from pests. Therefore, experienced gardeners traditionally plant them nearby. The compatibility of onions with other vegetables interests many gardeners. Good allies for onions are melons, lettuce, cucumbers and beets. It is not advisable to place beans, asparagus, legumes and watercress next to this vegetable. Only leeks are friends with beans. The compatibility of vegetables in the greenhouse is the same as in the garden.
Greenery
Dill can coexist well with many crops. It usually self-sows and is found throughout the site. However, it is better to remove it from the carrot bed, as this is not the best union. Basil is the best neighbor for tomatoes. It also gets along well with beans, cucumbers, some types of lettuce, fennel, onions, zucchini and corn. But it doesn’t go well with dill and marjoram. In turn, marjoram can be placed next to onions, carrots, spinach and turnips. In addition to basil, fennel is also a bad neighbor for it.
Peppers, radishes, turnips, radishes and beets
Any type of pepper can be planted next to tomatoes, thyme, basil, eggplant and kohlrabi. The compatibility of vegetables in the garden, the table of which will be the best help for any gardener, is very important. For peppers, beets, beans and fennel will be a bad ally in the garden. Beets can be planted with dill, lettuce, zucchini and onions. Among the numerous types of onions, only perennial varieties are the opposite of this vegetable. Radishes and radishes can be placed alongside green onions, watercress, carrots, parsley, tomatoes, spinach and lettuce. They do not get along well with horseradish, cucumbers, basil and zucchini. Delicious turnips can be planted next to marjoram, watercress, celery, radishes and spinach. It does not get along well with tomatoes and cabbage.
Tomatoes
Tomato is one of the main vegetables in the garden. Basil is considered its best companion. It also gets along well with beans, dill, carrots, onions, radishes, celery and lettuce. The worst place to plant this crop is in an area where potatoes, peas, grapes, zucchini, cucumbers and fennel grow. If these requirements are met, the yield can be much higher.
Pumpkin
One cannot help but say something about this culture. It is often grown in garden plots and mistakenly placed next to zucchini. As a result, a crop grows that is characterized by low taste qualities. These two vegetables simply cross-pollinate. It is better to plant pumpkin next to beans, peas or legumes. But the best option is a separate area that is unsuitable for planting other plants (for example, a compost heap). Pumpkin growth is adversely affected by proximity to potatoes, peppers and eggplants. It is also undesirable to plant cucumbers and tomatoes nearby.
Conclusion
Growing plants in your garden is not that difficult. But what the harvest will be like depends on many factors, including the proximity of crops to each other. The compatibility of vegetables in the garden, a table of which any gardener should always have at hand, will help achieve excellent results. Together with the timely implementation of all necessary agrotechnical measures, the correct arrangement of plants will allow you to obtain higher yields. Plant, grow and enjoy the fruits of your labors!
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Compatibility of vegetables in a greenhouse is the key to a rich harvest
Many experienced summer residents are well versed in the compatibility of vegetables and use this knowledge when planting to achieve a bountiful harvest.
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Plants that require the same cultivation conditions can grow in one greenhouse.
It is even more necessary to take into account the compatibility of plants in a greenhouse.
Indeed, in conditions of limited closed space, even if it is possible to plant incompatible vegetables in different beds at a distance from each other, they still conflict. Competition is not only for water and nutrients coming from the soil. Some plants have a detrimental effect on neighboring plants by the substances they emit.
Which plant to choose?
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The use of a greenhouse on a summer cottage or personal plot has long justified itself. It is a reliable protection for early sowing of seeds, a nursery for tomatoes, peppers and eggplants, which will later find a place in open ground. Having a greenhouse, you can get more than one harvest of greenery and save the harvest remontant raspberries, which is not allowed to ripen by the onset of autumn frosts. You can grow any vegetables in it, it all depends on the preferences of the owners.
It makes sense in the spring to sow radishes, dill and annual onions on the greens, and after harvesting the early greens, place tomatoes, eggplants and peppers there, or occupy the area for cucumbers. Lovers of southern cultures will certainly find a place in the greenhouse for melons and watermelons or plant grapes in it. Considering the compatibility of crops, you can even grow corn, which goes well with legumes. But few people succeed in caring for it due to the complex technology of pollination. Flower growers will most likely devote greenhouse space to ornamental flowering plants.
Experts recommend not to rush into creating assorted vegetables in a greenhouse; it is better to start the experiment with one plant, since the technology for growing in open and closed ground is somewhat different. Vegetable crops planted in a greenhouse require much more attention and care. You must first make sure whether this idea is feasible.
Having acquired basic skills, you can try to grow 2-3 types of vegetables at the same time in a greenhouse. If the area of the plot allows, then gardeners install several greenhouses. However, on a plot of 6 acres, when 2 of them are already occupied by a house, a front garden and outbuildings, this option is hardly possible.
Leaders of vegetable crops: tomatoes and cucumbers in one greenhouse
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The option of planting cucumbers and tomatoes in one greenhouse is due to the lack of planting space, but does not give an impressive harvest.
The two most popular vegetables, without which a table is unthinkable, are cucumbers and tomatoes. During the summer season, gardeners try not only to grow them for fresh consumption, but also to stock up on canned fruits for the whole winter. These are usually the main greenhouse vegetables. If both vegetables are grown in large volumes for the purpose of sale, then it is better to have a separate greenhouse for each of them. But often amateur gardeners cannot decide which is more important and place tomatoes and cucumbers in the same greenhouse.
This is also possible, but you need to adapt the microclimate of the greenhouse for each vegetable, since their requirements for moisture, heat and ventilation are completely different. Cucumbers prefer a humid, warm climate, but direct sunlight is undesirable. They love this method of watering, such as sprinkling, which tomatoes cannot tolerate at all. In order for them to get along in the same greenhouse, planting should be done so that the plants do not touch each other at all.
If the greenhouse is long enough, you can make a fence inside from polycarbonate, plywood or boards. But for this option it is important that there are also two entrances. When the greenhouse is ventilated from the side of the tomatoes, this will not harm the cucumbers in any way. And when cucumbers are watered, the tomato bushes will not be harmed by the water.
Many summer residents note that when planting tomatoes and cucumbers together, tomatoes suffer more. Their harvest is significantly reduced. Therefore, the best option would be their separate existence.
If you decide to use a greenhouse for tomatoes, you can first plant all the seedlings on the 20th of May in the greenhouse as a nursery, and then leave some of the roots under cover. These can be early varieties for a quick harvest or, on the contrary, late tall varieties to increase the duration of fruiting. Everyone decides for themselves. And the cucumbers will feel comfortable separately - in the garden bed under a film cover.
Favorable neighborhood
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Light and well-filled soils are most suitable for peppers and eggplants.
Still, tomatoes get along well with herbs in the form of dill, parsley, and onions. If you sow radishes, lettuce, and green onions in April to obtain feathers, then in May you can successfully place tomatoes after them, leaving some of the greens. Green beans have a beneficial effect on tomatoes; melons and watermelons will not interfere. But they should be placed away from drafts, in the depths of the greenhouse.
Peppers and eggplants will do well with both cucumbers and tomatoes. Therefore, the following options are possible:
- tomatoes, peppers, herbs, melons, beans, peas;
- cucumbers, peppers, eggplants, cabbage, zucchini, beans;
- tomatoes, early cabbage, herbs and greens.
However, the concept of green requires clarification. Onions get along well with many vegetables, but beans and peas are not acceptable. Beans, in turn, will not tolerate onions. Although friendly to most plants.
http://youtu.be/s6wU1Ix-gDo
Often, greenhouses are adapted for multi-level berry gardens of different varieties of strawberries. In this case, you need to take into account that the berry will feel good surrounded by greens: onions, garlic, cucumbers. Cabbage is also favorable for these crops, but it does not tolerate berries.
Zucchini will get along with any neighbor; the microclimate of cucumbers is close to it, only it will need more space and ventilation more often. If peppers and eggplants are quite compatible, then you should not plant eggplants close to tomatoes. And it’s better not to plant it in the same greenhouse with tomatoes. But for peas, the substances coming from tomatoes are very beneficial; they accelerate its growth and development.
Features of growing vegetables in a greenhouse
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Even if the plants are correctly combined in the greenhouse and the compatibility of vegetables is taken into account, it is important to pay attention to the frequency of planting. Thickening is highly undesirable. If in open ground it is possible to form a standard tomato bush into 3-4 branches, then in a greenhouse it is advisable to form no more than 2 branches, and tall varieties - only one. Planting peppers is allowed quite densely, in a checkerboard pattern, but eggplants love space. To prevent one plant from shading another as it grows, a lot of time needs to be devoted to tying up the plants in a timely manner.
If this condition is not observed, then pests often appear in the greenhouse, and it is not easy to get rid of them. It is necessary to maintain a level of humidity, the excess of which can seriously harm the tomatoes. And the soil must be carefully prepared, since there is no access to nutrients from the outside. There is also no access for insects that take care of timely pollination. Therefore, you should buy seeds intended specifically for greenhouses. Tomatoes, peppers and eggplants are self-pollinating. But not all varieties of cucumbers are like this.
In regions with unpredictable weather in May and early June, it would be good to take care of emergency heating. In case the seedlings have already been planted, but there is not enough sun and there is a threat of frost.
http://youtu.be/IX7J1o2WMXU
Compatibility of vegetable crops, well-chosen plants will contribute to better growth of each other and fruiting. As practice shows, productivity increases by 20-25% when there is a favorable neighborhood.
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Plant compatibility. What to plant with in the garden?
Planting plants together, taking into account their compatibility, can increase the yield. If they are incompatible, yields are reduced. The NN Mama website has compiled a list of plant compatibility that will tell you what to plant with what and what to sow the garden bed with so that there is a good harvest.
Change of fruits. What to plant in the garden?
A fruit changer will help prevent unilateral soil depletion. The plant is returned to the place where it grew no earlier than after 3-4 years. There are exceptions: tomato, beans, strawberries, potatoes - they can grow in the same place for years.
To avoid one-sided depletion of the soil, plants are alternated depending on what nutrients they require. In a simplified form, you can alternate “tops” and “roots” (for example, carrots are grown after cabbage or tomatoes).
After the bow and garlic, all crops can be planted. Re-sowing onions and garlic is not recommended.
After tomatoes and potatoes: cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas, garlic, beets, lettuce, carrots, parsley, dill, celery.
After cucumbers, zucchini, and squash, plant: radishes, cabbage, beets, onions, garlic, peas, beans, tomatoes, potatoes.
After carrots, dill, parsley, celery, plant: onions, garlic, beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes.
After strawberries (after 4 years)- root vegetables and legumes, next year - pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, after - tomatoes, onions. After beans, peas, onions and garlic, you can plant any crops.
The best predecessors of main vegetable crops are:
For green crops (except lettuce)- cabbage, cucumber, root vegetables, onions;
For early white cabbage and cauliflower- potatoes, tomatoes, onions, legumes, root vegetables (except radishes, turnips, radishes and rutabaga);
For medium and late white cabbage- tomato, potato, legumes, carrots, beets;
For onions on turnips- cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, early potatoes, legumes, late cabbage and potatoes;
For cucumber- early cabbage and cauliflower, tomatoes, potatoes, legumes (except beans), root vegetables (except carrots), since beans and carrots are affected by white rot, like cucumber;
For carrots- potatoes, cabbage, green crops (except lettuce, which suffers from white rot), tomato, legumes (except beans);
For beets- cucumber and other pumpkins, early potatoes, cabbage, tomato and all legumes, late cabbage;
For potatoes- cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, squash, cabbage, legumes, root vegetables, onions;
For tomato, pepper, eggplant, physalis- early white and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, onions, root vegetables, late cabbage;
For the garlic- cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, legumes, late cabbage;
Plant compatibility. What to plant with what?
If you don’t match the neighbors of the plants, you can get not just a small harvest, but even be left without it. After all, enemy plants take each other’s useful minerals from the ground, and also suffer from similar diseases and the risk of infection will be 50% greater!
Enemies.
–Carrot does not like anise, dill, cabbage. Its proximity to apple trees is unacceptable: if you plant carrots under a tree, both apples and root vegetables will taste bitter. - Onion does not grow with beans, peas, or sage. – Tomatoes not the best companions for potatoes, they have a common disease (late blight) and one pest (Colorado beetle). - Pepper Fennel cannot tolerate it, and they do not plant it with beans, since these crops are susceptible to the same disease. – Turnip and pumpkin do not get along with potatoes. - Apple and pear trees do not like proximity to cherry plums, cherries, cherries, plums and apricots
Friends.
–Eggplant They grow well next to beans; they protect against the Colorado potato beetle. – Cabbage does not suffer from flea beetles if celery is planted next door. Dill saves it from caterpillars and aphids, and chamomile and mint protect it from the cabbage butterfly. – Potato goes well with spinach, cabbage and radishes. It is protected from the Colorado potato beetle by marigolds and nasturtium, and from late blight by garlic. – Strawberry loves bush beans, garlic, lettuce, onions, radishes, radishes and beets. To repel slugs from the berries, parsley is planted between the beds. – Onion goes well with carrots. These crops protect each other from pests. Onions grow well with beets, lettuce, cucumbers, spinach, radishes, and watercress. – Carrot“friends” with peas, radishes, garlic, lettuce and radishes. – cucumbers readily coexist with beans, celery, and beets. Good companions are lettuce, cabbage, garlic, onions, radishes, and spinach. - TO tomatoes You can plant onions, but only on greens - the tops of tomatoes grow quickly and greatly shade their neighbor. – Beet friendly to onions, beans, salad. – Carrot, turnips And cucumbers can be combined with peas, it enriches the soil with nitrogen.
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What grows with what? Plant compatibility in the garden
Which plants can grow together with others, and which ones are contraindicated to be planted next to each other? What is better to plant in last year's beds? What garden vegetables are compatible with each other? This table will help you make the right choice.
Common basil
Compatible plants: peas, kohlrabi
Best predecessors: none.
Eggplant
Compatible plants: green annuals, onions, beans, peppers
Incompatible plants: peas, fennel
The best predecessors: cucumber, cabbage, greens, legumes.
Vegetable beans
The best predecessors: corn, root vegetables, potatoes, cucumber, cabbage.
Peas
Compatible plants: white cabbage, watercress, sweet corn, potatoes, carrots, aromatic plants, lettuce, spinach
Incompatible plants: onions, tomatoes, beans, garlic, zucchini
The best predecessors: pumpkin, root vegetables, cabbage, corn, potatoes.
Sarepta mustard
Compatible plants: white cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, cauliflower, peas, radish
Incompatible plants: no
Best predecessors: none.
Daikon
Compatible plants: no
Incompatible plants: no
The best predecessors: potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, sorrel, green crops, pumpkin, squash.
Melon
Compatible plants: sweet corn
Incompatible plants: potatoes
The best predecessors: onions, legumes, root crops.
Hyssop officinalis
Compatible plants: no
Incompatible plants: almost all plants
Best predecessors: none.
Zucchini
Compatible plants: corn, onions, beets, tomato
Incompatible plants: no
The best predecessors: potatoes, cabbage, onions, root vegetables, legumes, green crops.
White cabbage
Compatible plants: potatoes, cucumber, radishes, lettuce, beets, celery, garlic, beans, peas, fennel, spinach, endive
Incompatible plants: carrots, beans
Broccoli
Compatible plants: potatoes, onions, carrots, parsley, head lettuce, beets, celery, sage
The best predecessors: annual legumes, pumpkin, early tomatoes, potatoes, onions, carrots.
Kohlrabi cabbage
Compatible plants: onion, cucumber, aromatic plants, radishes, lettuce, red beets, peas, scorcionera, fennel, spinach
Incompatible plants: tomato, beans
Best predecessors: none.
Cabbage
Compatible plants: late white cabbage, potatoes
Incompatible plants: no
The best predecessors: cucumber, onion, tomato, potato, root vegetables, legumes.
Savoy cabbage
Compatible plants: no
Incompatible plants: no
The best predecessors: annual legumes, pumpkin, early tomatoes, potatoes, onions, carrots.
Cauliflower
Compatible plants: potatoes, cucumber, lettuce, celery
Incompatible plants: tomato
The best predecessors: annual legumes, pumpkin, early tomatoes, potatoes, onions, carrots.
Potato
Compatible plants: beans, eggplant, calendula, corn, white cabbage, onions, radishes, radish, garlic, beans, horseradish
Incompatible plants: quinoa, cucumber, tomato, sorrel, pumpkin, fennel
Best predecessors: none.
Kozelets Spanish
Compatible plants: cabbage, onions, carrots, lettuce
Incompatible plants: no
Best predecessors: none.
Watercress
Compatible plants: radish
Incompatible plants: no
Best predecessors: none.
Kruknek
Compatible plants: no
Incompatible plants: no
The best predecessors: potatoes, cabbage, onions, root vegetables, legumes, greens.
Corn
Compatible plants: peas, zucchini, late white cabbage, potatoes, cucumber, pumpkin, beans, beans, lettuce
Incompatible plants: beets, fennel
The best predecessors: legumes, early vegetables, onions, cucumber.
Lagenaria vulgaris
Compatible plants: no
Incompatible plants: no
The best predecessors: legumes, onions, cabbage, root crops.
Leek
Compatible plants: onions, carrots, celery
Incompatible plants: no
The best predecessors: pumpkin and nightshade crops.
Bulb onions
Compatible plants: Brussels sprouts, carrots, lettuce, red beets, cucumber, tomato, chicory, savory
Incompatible plants: peas, radishes, beans, beans, cabbage, radish
The best predecessors: legumes, early potatoes, cucumber.
Garden marjoram
Compatible plants: carrots
Incompatible plants: cucumber
The best predecessors: all plants except representatives of the Lamiaceae family.
Carrots
Compatible plants: peas, broccoli, leeks, onions, cucumber, parsley, radishes, lettuce, beets, sage, spinach, scorcionera, radish
Incompatible plants: dill, fennel, cabbage, chard
The best predecessors: early potatoes and cabbage, legumes, cucumber, onion, tomato.
Cucumber
Compatible plants: peas, late white cabbage, sweet corn, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, beans, garlic, fennel
Incompatible plants: potatoes, aromatic plants, radish, tomato
The best predecessors: peas, potatoes, onions, cabbage.
Cultivated parsnip
Compatible plants: lettuce
Incompatible plants: onions, garlic
Best predecessors: none.
Squash
Compatible plants: no
Incompatible plants: no
The best predecessors: potatoes or other vegetable crops, except pumpkin crops
Capsicum
Compatible plants: eggplant
Incompatible plants: no
The best predecessors: annual legumes, cabbage, cucumber.
Curly parsley
Compatible plants: basil, onion, cucumber, asparagus, tomato, beans
Incompatible plants: head lettuce
Best predecessors: none
Rhubarb
Compatible plants: peas, cabbage, radishes, lettuce, celery, beans, spinach
Incompatible plants: no
Best predecessors: none.
Radish
Compatible plants: cabbage, carrots, turnips, lettuce, tomato, beans, beans, fennel, spinach
Incompatible plants: onions, cucumbers, chard beets
The best predecessors: early potatoes, green crops.
Radish
Compatible plants: carrots, cucumber, tomato, melon, parsnips, red beets, pumpkin, spinach, fennel, beans, cabbage
Incompatible plants: hyssop, onion, cucumber, beet chard
The best predecessors: legumes, cucumber, tomato, early potatoes.
Garden turnip
Compatible plants: radish
Incompatible plants: no
The best predecessors: cucumber, zucchini, tomato, legumes, potatoes.
Lettuce
Compatible plants: cabbage, carrots, parsnips, rhubarb, radishes, radishes, red beets, tomatoes, spinach, beans, corn, scorcione, fennel
Incompatible plants: no
The best predecessors: cucumber, cabbage.
Head lettuce
Compatible plants: peas, cabbage, onion, cucumber, tomato, beans, beans, corn, scorcione, beets, fennel, carrots
Incompatible plants: celery, parsley
Best predecessors: none.
Common beetroot
Compatible plants: cabbage, onions, carrots, cucumbers, lettuce, zucchini, garlic, beans
Incompatible plants: Sarepta mustard, potatoes, beans, corn, onions
The best predecessors: legumes, cucumber, potatoes, tomato, cabbage, onion.
Celery odorous cultivated
Compatible plants: white cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi, leek, tomato, beans, cucumber, spinach
Incompatible plants: lettuce, potatoes, corn, endive
The best predecessors: cabbage, pumpkin, nightshade crops.
Asparagus officinalis
Compatible plants: basil, parsley, tomato
Incompatible plants: no
Best predecessors: none.
Common tomato
Compatible plants: basil, cabbage, onions, parsley, radishes, lettuce, asparagus, beans, garlic, beans, corn, carrots, spinach
Incompatible plants: peas, potatoes, kohlrabi, quinoa, cucumber, turnip, dill, fennel
The best predecessors: annual legumes, onions, early cabbage, cucumber.
Pumpkin
Compatible plants: no
Incompatible plants: no
The best predecessors: perennial herbs, potatoes, cabbage, onions, root vegetables, legumes.
Common beans
Compatible plants: peas, cabbages, potatoes, corn, carrots, nightshades, parsley, rhubarb, radishes, cucumber, beets, garden savory
Incompatible plants: onions, fennel, garlic, pumpkin
The best predecessors: pumpkin, cabbage, root vegetables, potatoes.
Horseradish
Compatible plants: potatoes
Incompatible plants: no
Best predecessors: none.
Chicory salad
Compatible plants: onions, carrots, tomato, fennel
Incompatible plants: no
Best predecessors: none.
Garden savory
Compatible plants: watercress, onion, parsley, tomato, beans, dill, spinach
Incompatible plants: cucumber
Best predecessors: none.
Garlic
Compatible plants: carrots, cucumber, parsley, lettuce, tomato, beets
Incompatible plants: peas, cabbage, beans, beans
Best predecessors: none.
Siebold's Cleaner
Compatible plants: onions, lettuce
Incompatible plants: potatoes, root vegetables
Best predecessors: none.
Svetlana, Russia
Lyudmila, I am truly delighted with your selection. I have already copied and dragged all sorts of important useful things for the garden into my collection! Thank you!
Elena, Lviv
Lyudmila! I started studying this super article in anticipation of the next season. I have had hyssop (pink) on my balcony for a couple of years alongside other spicy herbs (except basil). These neighbors are perennial. All the other plants have already degenerated a couple of times, but at least he’s okay. Why? I cover them all with rags, and the hyssop grows at the edge of the box.
Lyudmila Uleyskaya, Yalta
It is possible that hyssop is more unpretentious. This is what it needs: good soil, fertilizing with ammonium nitrate after spring regrowth and after the first pruning, watering in the hot, dry summer. In winter, it can withstand temperatures as low as -15 degrees Celsius.
Elena, Lviv
Could this be due to the fact that the bases of its shoots become lignified?
Lyudmila Uleyskaya, Yalta
Why don’t your rosemary, savory, and santolina woody bases of their shoots?
Elena, Lviv
I hide rosemary indoors. Santolina lignifies well, but savory and hyssop barely wood at all, only the base is solid.
EkaterinaK, Russia
Thank you, I copied and will definitely apply your advice!
Elena Vakho, Ulyanovsk
Thanks for the summary of compatibility data, it’s rare to find so much and so briefly.
Lyubov Usmanova, Chelyabinsk
Thank you very much for such useful information!!! I'm just a beginner gardener. And I almost planted cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse. (((I’ll try to read more now..))) Thank you! Thank you!!!
Yulia, Rostov-on-Don
For several years we had a greenhouse in which we planted cucumbers and tomatoes together. Everything grew great! So these vegetables don't die from each other!
Vitaly, Chusovoy
Thanks a lot! I have been looking for such information for a long time. I found it, but everything is somehow difficult to describe. Everything is simple and clear for you! Easy to use when planning plantings. Thanks a lot!
Lyudmila Uleyskaya, Yalta
Have you tried planting potatoes and eggplant yourself? And why doesn’t eggplant have potatoes as a companion, but potatoes and eggplant are ok? Well, you’ll hardly see horseradish with potatoes and radishes in the same garden bed. All the same, the conventions of agricultural technology will interfere with such a neighborhood, it seems to me.
Lyudmila Uleyskaya, Yalta
Thanks for the detailed list. My garden is small. Having read the basics of natural farming over the winter, I unexpectedly turned to the topic of “joint planting” and books by Bublik and Kurdyumov. The joint plantings captivated me primarily with their beauty. Now I’m convincing my retrograde wife to plant according to this fashionable scheme :))
Alexander, Minsk
Vitaly, good afternoon! I am sure that you and your wife and with such a thorough approach to everything you do, everything will definitely work out; and joint plantings as well. How are your ferns growing?
Alexander, Minsk
So is it possible to plant beets next to beans or not?!!!
Yes, you can plant beets next to beans, and after them too. It is important to remember: beets accumulate nitrates, so in the second half of the growing season it is better not to fertilize with mineral fertilizers, especially nitrogen ones!
Lyudmila Uleyskaya, Yalta
I guess that almost everything can be planted with beans except the “relatives” of legumes, i.e. and beets, and potatoes, and pumpkin, and tree trunks))
Lyudmila Orlova (Abramova), Ekaterinburg
Lyudmila Uleyskaya, Yalta
Lyudmila, these are all edible plants. What about color compatibility? Between each other and with edible plants? For example, is it possible to plant greens or vegetables after gladioli?
VASILIY, Vulcanesti
Lyudmila, good afternoon! You noticed correctly: in this material we're talking about only about edible plants. And you asked a very interesting question about the compatibility of floral perennials and annuals. Unfortunately, the information about this is very scattered and in order to collect everything the way it is done in this material, you will have to work for more than one month. After the gladioli, we have never planted or sown anything in these places this season, although if there is not enough space, it is quite possible to use them, for example, for winter sowing.
Baya Hawthorn, Russia
Lyudmila, last year I had gladioli growing on my ridge, in the fall I dug up and planted rye, and this year I sowed various early-ripening salads (cress, salad mustard, borage) and radishes in this place. What do you think, nothing? I read on the Internet that all parts of gladioli are poisonous... And after them there is nothing toxic left in the soil that the newly planted edible plants could absorb?.. This is probably a stupid question, but doubts still prevail...
Lyudmila Uleyskaya, Yalta
Lyudmila, good morning! If you haven’t treated your gladioli with anything strong or harmful, but stick to their organic healing, then nothing.
Lyudmila Uleyskaya, Yalta
Amina Akunaeva, Sterlitamak
Nadezhda Gerasimova
Good morning! You are absolutely right: when you have the information, then you are already theoretically strong in the fight against pests and plant diseases. All that remains is to use all this knowledge practically at the dacha.
Lyudmila Uleyskaya, Yalta
Thank you! Very useful information!
Lyudmila Uleyskaya, Yalta
Lyudmila, please! Thank you for reading my articles.
Valechka Ivanova, Kursk
Hello! I want to say that beans and garlic are very compatible. And the garlic is very large (depending on how far apart it is planted), and the beans are wonderful (asparagus beans). Thank you.
R/S: the soil is loamy.
Lyudmila Uleyskaya, Yalta
Thanks for the very useful tips. This year I gardened for the first time. He grew a good harvest. There is no cellar yet and instead
made a barn in a barn. Now it’s -10 outside, and in the barn it’s +1.3 degrees. I sprinkled the potatoes with ash, carrots and beets with the putty left over after the repair. So far it's stored well. Time will tell what changes will need to be made next year
Olga Savelyevna, Kyiv
And thank you for your comment, write. Over time, this article can be supplemented with new information from site users by making links.
Lyudmila Uleyskaya, Yalta
Good afternoon Let me disagree about the proximity of cucumber and radish. If at the end of June you plant radish seeds next to a cucumber (more precisely, already under the leaves) and forget, then, for example, for my birthday, September 4, I always get excellent, rather large radish roots... Try it! All the best…
Tata, Kaluga
I will definitely try it, and I was also interested in the proximity of basil to tomatoes and peppers, where it serves both as a sealant and as a protector against aphids and other pests at the same time.
Tata, Kaluga
Can you tell me what can be planted after corn? I read somewhere that she pulls everything out useful material from the soil and now I’m wondering what to grow in this garden bed...
Valechka, we always grew corn as a curtain at the boundary between our garden and the neighbors’ gardens on both sides, sometimes we planted beans on it; It happened that the next year they replaced the corn coulisse with a sunflower coulis, and after the corn it grew, blossomed and bore fruit well.
What does "Best Predecessors" mean?
And it is written " Common beetroot
Compatible plants: cabbage, onion onions, carrots, cucumber, lettuce, zucchini, garlic, beans
Incompatible plants: Sarepta mustard, potatoes, beans, corn, onion
Best predecessors: legumes, cucumber, potatoes, tomato, cabbage, onion.
It turns out that onions are compatible and incompatible at the same time with ordinary table beets? Or I misunderstood something. And if it is some other beet, for example cylinder or Detroit, or Bordeaux?
This is my first time trying to grow something on a summer cottage and I don’t know or understand much about agriculture, so I apologize if my questions seem strange.
Olga Savelyevna, good morning!
For ordinary table beets, as for other vegetable crops, the best predecessors are those crops that grew in this place of the garden before the beets. As a rule, the same vegetable is not planted in the same place every year. There is a concept of crop rotation, when every year we change crops in the same place: this year we sow beans, and the next year we sow beets. Beginner gardeners first keep notes in which they draw crop rotation patterns, while professionals, based on their many years of experience, already do this automatically. Onions are “universal” for beets: they are both a good predecessor and a compatible plant; especially in the southern regions, when beets are sown in the summer, in early June, as the second crop after it, radishes and other green crops. In incompatible crops, onions are added to beets in compacted plantings, when space is needed for both the development of the root crop and the bulb, only for these reasons. If all this is taken into account, then onions and beets are more of a friend than an enemy. And since we’re talking about beets, I want to add one more clarification: the best predecessors for table beets are early potatoes and early cabbage.
After onions, it is good to plant beets in this bed for the next year. - this means that beets are a good predecessor - onions.
Compatible - can be planted in one bed, side by side.
And about the onion, apparently, they made a mistake, a typo... a contradiction. Last time edited February 8, 2016, 01:19
7dach.ru
Plant compatibility table (alelopathy)
Compatibility of cultivated plants (alelopathy)
Culture |
Compatible |
Incompatible |
Design |
White acacia |
Against a background of dark conifers |
||
Actinidia kolomikta |
Currant |
Apple tree, fruit and large trees |
At the house, along the supports |
Old apple tree |
|||
Potato |
Tomatoes, horseradish, cabbage |
||
Corn, carrots, onions, parsley, celery |
Tomatoes, beans, horseradish |
||
Asparagus, tomatoes |
|||
Eggplant |
Greens, onions, beans, potatoes, peppers |
Beans, peas, cucumbers, aromatic herbs |
|
Barberry |
Suppresses the growth of other plants. Cereals |
Od. , gr. landing, alive izg. |
|
Marigold |
Strawberries, roses, tulips, gladioli |
||
Paper birch, drooping |
Old apple tree, cherry |
“Burns” the pine |
Rowan, willow, oak, linden, maple, beech, bird cherry on a background of conifers |
Euonymus warty |
Apple tree, fruit trees(attracts pests) |
||
Potatoes, pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, sunflowers |
Onion, garlic, celery, fennel |
||
Brocolli |
Celery, sage, beets, onions, potatoes, cucumbers |
Tomatoes, beans, strawberries |
|
Lettuce, spinach, carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, pumpkin, beets, tomatoes |
|||
Brussels sprouts |
Celery, potatoes, beets, onions, cucumbers |
Tomatoes, beans, strawberries |
|
Black elderberry |
Protects currants, gooseberries, raspberries |
Around the barn and in the garden |
|
Grape |
The smell of cabbage and laurel worsens the taste. Elm, hazel |
Vertical gardening |
|
Apple, pear, apricot |
|||
Elm, mountain elm |
Depresses grapes, oak |
Maple, linden |
|
Gladiolus |
Garlic, calendula |
||
Carrots, turnips, radishes, potatoes, cucumbers, beans, marigolds, calendula, aromatic herbs |
Onion garlic |
||
Cabbage, turnips, peas |
|||
Black poplar, maple (protects with phytoncides), oak |
Walnut, Manchurian and black walnut, white acacia, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine), barberry, stone fruits, wheatgrass, beech, dark conifers (spruce, fir, cedar) |
||
Like radishes, radishes - beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips, cucumbers, tomatoes, pumpkin and zucchini |
Peas, strawberries, cabbage |
||
Delphinium |
|||
Tree pliers (Redbladder) round-leaved |
Do not plant near fruit trees |
To decorate buildings |
|
Old apple tree, Norway maple, linden, pine, cedar |
White acacia, ash, elm - not very |
In groups with conifers |
|
Fragrant herbs |
Peas, kohlrabi |
||
Corn, beans, radishes, tomatoes |
Potatoes, cucumbers, cabbage |
||
Rowan, hazel, raspberry |
White acacia, horse chestnut, fir, lilac, Tatra maple, rose, rose hips, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine), barberry |
Fir, pine, birch, maple, ash, shrubs |
|
Eggplants, tomatoes |
|||
Strawberries |
Beans, spinach, lettuce, onion, garlic, marigolds, calendula |
It is not advisable to grow after potatoes, eggplants, peppers, cabbage, cucumbers, asters, lilies, gladioli (so as not to become infected with their diseases) |
Legumes, onions, garlic, greens. crops, radishes, celery, beets, carrots are good predecessors |
Cereals |
Barberry |
||
See pear, except 4th last. + Manchurian walnut |
|||
Corn, beans, beans, lettuce, onion, celery |
tomatoes |
Separately - zucchini, pumpkins, squash (preferably not together) |
|
Calendula |
Apple tree, currants, roses, tulips, gladioli. Strawberries, onions, peas, tomatoes |
||
Suppresses the growth of other plants |
Oak, linden, rowan |
||
Celery, cucumbers, beets, mustard, spinach, dill, lettuce, onions, potatoes, nasturtium (with all cabbages), calendula, tobacco |
Strawberries, tomatoes, beans |
||
Brussels sprouts |
Chinese cabbage |
||
Chinese cabbage |
Brussels sprouts, cauliflower |
||
Cabbage |
With many. Dill, celery, onion |
Tomatoes, beans, strawberries |
|
Cauliflower |
Celery, Chinese cabbage, beans, parsley, sage |
Tomatoes. strawberries |
Potato |
Watermelon, broccoli, cabbage, corn, peas, beans, beans, horseradish, eggplant, onions, nasturtium, carrots, lettuce, dill, coriander |
Pumpkin, tomatoes, cucumbers, sunflower, raspberries, cherries, apple trees |
Good: cereals as precursors; peas, calendula |
Horse chestnut |
Suppresses the growth of other plants |
Single landings |
|
Norway maple, field maple, Tatarian maple |
Apple tree, pear tree. Oak's companion. Linden |
Spruce - suppresses Tatar |
Against a background of conifers |
Kohlrabi |
Cucumbers, onions, beets, lettuce, aromatic herbs |
Strawberries, tomatoes |
|
Watercress |
|||
Corn |
Artichoke, peas, beans, melon, zucchini, pumpkin, cucumbers, potatoes, barley, lupine, mustard |
Contains raspberry growth |
|
Spruce, raspberry |
|||
The apple tree is old; oak, coniferous, maple |
Oak, rowan, maple, ash, mackerel |
||
Cabbage, kohlrabi, broccoli, potatoes, beets, carrots, tomatoes, eggplants, lettuce, chicory, leeks, garlic, strawberries, calendula, savory, tobacco |
Peas, beans. Aggressive to legumes and cabbages |
Extinguishes fungal diseases |
|
Leek |
Celery, onions, carrots, tomatoes |
||
Spruce, apple tree, pine, rowan, hazel |
Corn retards shoots well |
||
Chard |
Pumpkin, tomatoes, beans |
||
Peas, leeks, onions, lettuce, parsley, radish, beans, tomatoes, marjoram, sage |
Beetroot, celery, horseradish |
||
Nasturtium |
Vegetables, potatoes, phlox, cabbage, tomatoes, turnips |
||
Nasturtium, delphinium |
|||
Peas, corn, beans, radishes, tomatoes, cabbage, kohlrabi, lettuce, dill |
Potatoes, aromatic herbs |
Catnip and lemon balm - attract bees |
|
Manchurian walnut |
Inhibits apple, pear, yew, shadberry, rowan |
||
Old apple tree |
|||
Lettuce, onion (feather), tomatoes, eggplant |
Beans, peas, cucumbers, fennel, celery |
||
Parsnip |
|||
Parsley |
(Carrots), asparagus, tomatoes, peas, beans, beans, onions, lettuce |
Carrots, beets, celery, horseradish |
Protects everyone from pests |
Suppresses the growth of other plants |
Larches, pines, birches, spruces |
||
Depresses everyone |
|||
Single plant (except for perennial onions, horseradish) |
Gooseberry |
Good - fruit berry plantings |
|
Spinach, dill, watercress, beets, carrots, cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini and pumpkin, aromatic herbs |
Peas, beans, strawberries |
Before zucchini, zucchini, etc. late |
|
zucchini, cucumbers, beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips, pumpkin, melon, tomatoes, lettuce |
Peas, beans, strawberries, cabbage |
||
Spinach, dill, lettuce, carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, beets, pumpkin, tomatoes |
Beans, peas, horseradish, celery |
||
Garlic, calendula |
Apple tree, pears |
||
Spruce, cherry, pine, raspberry |
|||
Strawberries, cabbage, kohlrabi, carrots, beets, radishes, onions, cucumbers |
Pumpkin, tomatoes, beans |
Activates the roots of other plants - helpers |
|
Salad chicory (witloof) |
Strawberries, cucumbers, carrots, radishes, cabbage |
Pumpkin, tomatoes, beans |
|
onions, radishes, lettuce, kohlrabi, broccoli, most cabbages |
Mustard, beans |
Chorus. predecessors: legumes, winter grains, perennial grasses, corn |
|
Celery |
Brocolli, cauliflower, cabbage, leeks, radishes, carrots, beets |
Tomatoes, peas, beans |
|
Suppresses the growth of other plants, “suffers” from spruce |
Od., gr. landing, alive izg. |
||
Scorzonera (black root) |
Onions, cabbage, radishes, carrots, beets |
Tomatoes, beans, horseradish, peas |
|
Apple tree, pear tree |
Do not plant next to sea buckthorn |
||
Currant |
Garlic, calendula, geranium, Jerusalem artichoke, homemade hops |
Cherry (with black currant), lily, tulip (bulbous) |
|
Apple tree, raspberry, rowan, larch, fir, spruce, hazel, oak, cedar, linden |
Suffering from birch; aspen |
Spruce, larch, |
|
Parsley, basil, tomatoes |
|||
Walnut, Manchurian and black walnut, barberry, white acacia, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine) |
Hardwood, od. and small gr. landings |
||
Onions, leeks, carrots, radishes, celery, parsley, asparagus, cabbage(?), greens, garlic, calendula, leftover, apple, eggplant, peppers, basil |
Kohlrabi, tall vegetables, beans, peas, cucumbers |
Help berry bushes |
|
Black poplar |
Pear, apple tree |
Closer to the pond |
|
Peas, mustard |
|||
Corn, beans, radish, onion, lettuce |
Potatoes, cabbage |
||
Garlic, calendula |
|||
Turnip, radish, cabbage, apple tree |
|||
Eggplants, tomatoes, potatoes, corn, beets, carrots, cauliflower, peas, cucumbers, pumpkin, melon, strawberries, savory, gladioli |
Onion, garlic, broccoli, fennel |
Protects everyone from pests |
|
Depresses everyone |
|||
Tomatoes, lettuce, onions (feathers), peppers |
Beans, peas, cucumbers, aromatic herbs |
||
Nasturtium |
|||
Potatoes, aromatic herbs |
Tomatoes, beans |
||
Bulb onions |
|||
Beans, onions |
|||
Rowan Nevezhinskaya, apple tree |
White acacia, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine), apple tree, pear, black currant |
||
Roses, tulips, gladioli, currants, strawberries, onions, peas (?), tomatoes |
Peas (?), beans |
Aggressive to legumes and cabbages. Extinguishes fungal diseases |
|
Mock orange (jasmine) |
Suppresses the growth of other plants |
||
Brocolli, carrots |
|||
Rose hip |
Spruce. Suppresses the growth of other plants |
All bushes in one place |
|
Strawberries, turnips, radishes, radishes, cabbage, cucumbers, carrots |
Pumpkin, tomatoes, beans |
Activates the roots of other plants |
|
Strawberries, carrots, radishes, cabbage |
Tomatoes, peas, beans, sage and other fragrant |
||
Linden and grapes as predecessors. Under the old apple trees there are oak, linden, birch, hazel, cherry plum and other conifers, pine, black poplar, maple, raspberries, dill, tomatoes, hemp, tansy, calendula. The smell of mullein infusion or “green manure”, cherry |
Potatoes, wheatgrass, walnuts, Manchurian and black walnuts, white acacia, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine), barberry, stone fruits |
||
Common ash (tall) |
Suppresses the growth of trees and shrubs, oak is “so-so” |
||
Note
This table was compiled taking into account the analysis of several sources on the mutual influence of cultures. That is, the principle was in effect: those compatibility data that turned out to be the same, common to several authors, were entered into the table. Data that varied or were contradictory were not included in the table. So, the entire table represents a kind of conclusion or summary of several sources on this topic.
Spring, spring! The sun has finally broken through the clouds and gives us the soft warmth of its rays. In April you can really relax your soul and body, and at the same time gain strength for the upcoming battle for the harvest :) Birch juice, first green borscht with fresh nettles, the first salad of young greens - try to use all the gifts of Mother Earth to replenish the body’s resources spent over the long winter.
Yes, in many regions spring work is already in full swing. Gardeners are busily marking out their garden plots and planning what will grow where. For most, the plan has long been written out on paper, and now it is hastily adjusted and put into practice.
Good for the experienced! They no longer need advice. Well, those who have just begun to master working on their land are very interested in how to properly arrange the beds on the site, how to arrange beds for different vegetables.
Well, let's start in order.
Correct placement of beds
Is it necessary...
In general, plan beds, draw rectangles and squares, write down the location of crops? Need to! The fact is that the same vegetable cannot be constantly planted in the same place. Each plant requires its own set of minerals and trace elements. If these elements are taken from the ground from year to year, the yield will drop to a minimum. In addition, pathogenic microbes and spores of diseases characteristic of a particular culture accumulate in the soil. Therefore, crop rotation is necessary.
Experts recommend returning vegetables to their original place after 3-4 years. Unfortunately, this cannot always be achieved on a personal plot. After all, it usually takes up most of the area and, whatever one may say, it most often returns to the same place. But if possible, you need to sow last year’s potato areas with green manure or grain crops. And at least for one year, change the places where vegetables are planted. Do not forget also that plants of the same family are affected by the same diseases and pests (for example, late blight in potatoes and tomatoes or cruciferous flea beetle in cabbage and radishes).
What should the beds be like?
Each vegetable crop requires a different feeding area, so the beds may be different. We have already talked about row spacing. Those interested can copy the sign. The width and length of the beds will depend on the size of your plot and, oddly enough, taste :) For example, I get wide and long beds, but on my mother’s plot they are small. Whether this affects the yield has not been noticed.
But all practical farmers unanimously insist that the yield of vegetables depends on the orientation of vegetable plantings. Plants that are planted in rows are best placed from north to south. In this case, neighboring rows are shaded less and vegetable crops receive more sunlight. But almost all vegetables require light.
Not quite ordinary beds
And yet, it is possible to distinguish several types of beds that do not fit into big picture:
- narrow beds according to Mittlider
- narrow beds and box beds according to Kurdyumov
- high raised beds
- vertical and multi-tiered
Growing vegetables according to Mittlider requires constant watering and fertilizing. Only mineral fertilizers are used, and in fairly large quantities. It is quite difficult for us, completely intimidated by nitrates, to accept this method of farming. You can read more about the construction of such beds in.
Famous innovator-vegetable grower Nikolay Kurdyumov- supporter of organic farming. Without denying Mittlider's method, he offers his own version, more adapted to our conditions. He puts branches, reeds, sawdust at the base of his beds, with not quite rotted compost on top, and humus as the next layer. This way you can fill both boxes and trenches. Over the course of the season, the organic “cushion” gradually decomposes, releasing heat and nutrients to the plants.
Can be done raised beds without a box, pouring the earth in the form of a hill and leveling the area for planting on top. The result is a long ridge with a trapezoidal intersection. The width can be adjusted, usually it is calculated taking into account the placement of plants in two rows.
They help save space and make it convenient to care for and harvest plants. The device is a little more complicated, but the results will please you. Multi-tiered structures can become a real decoration for a personal plot if you approach this matter creatively.
The listed methods of growing vegetables are especially good for flooded areas and areas with a humid climate. But if there are frequent droughts in your area, and watering is quite problematic, then it is better to limit yourself to traditional methods of arranging beds.
Vegetable compatibility
To save space you can use compacted beds, sowing at the same time different vegetables. This takes into account the difference in the growing season of vegetable crops. For example, radishes, lettuce or spinach are added to carrot or onion seeds. After a month, it is already possible to harvest the additional early-ripening crop, which frees up space for the growth of the main crops.
It is also advisable to plant plants nearby that have a positive effect on each other. Such a neighborhood not only helps to increase productivity, but also repels pests. For example, carrots and onions planted nearby help control pests: carrots repel onion flies, and onions limit the actions of carrot flies.
But there are also antagonistic plants that inhibit the growth of neighbors. It is better not to plant them together. The following table will help you figure out which vegetables are suitable for each other:
Vegetable crop compatibility table
We wish you good harvests! Follow site updates Subscribe to new articles.
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Compatibility of crops in the garden
Each crop in the garden has its own characteristics. One requires enough light, the other feels comfortable in partial shade. The requirements for irrigation and occupied space are also different. The root system of plants is also different. In some plants it goes deep into the soil, while in others the roots are located near the surface of the earth. In addition, some plants have a detrimental effect on one or another pest. What if we take into account all the features of garden crops and combine them during planting?
It will make it possible not only to rationally use the area for planting, but also to naturally protect plants from diseases and pests, to ensure proper growth and maturation for plants, thereby increasing the quality and quantity of the harvest.
If you place crops correctly on your site, then even in non-black soil conditions and a small plot it is possible to get a decent harvest from the garden. Crop compatibility in the garden is practiced by mixed and compacted crops. Cultures must be selected taking into account their mutual influence on each other.
Compatibility of crops in the garden
B azil gets along well with peas and kohlrabi, but does not like being next to cucumbers.
Eggplant I agree to be adjacent to green annual herbs, onions, beans, peppers, bush beans, spinach, thyme, amaranth. Fennel and peas are not the most suitable neighbors for eggplant.
B oby vegetable they feel great with peas, cabbage, potatoes, corn, carrots, nightshades, parsley, rhubarb, radishes, cucumbers, beets, and garden savory. Onions, fennel, garlic and pumpkin are incompatible with beans.
Peas will be happy next to white cabbage, watercress, sweet corn, potatoes, carrots, aromatic herbs, spinach and lettuce. On the contrary, he will not be happy with onions, tomatoes, beans, garlic, or zucchini.
Gordchitsa perfectly compatible with cabbage (white cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, cauliflower), peas, radish. Other plants in the garden will also suit mustard as neighbors.
D icon, for example, he doesn’t like his neighbors at all and is not fit to be a neighbor himself!
Dynya compatible with sweet corn, pumpkin, zucchini, radishes. But it doesn’t get along well with onions and potatoes.
And medicinal ssop Doesn't get along well with crops in the garden.
Go to the abacus grows well next to tomatoes, beets, onions, corn, melon, pumpkin, borage, nasturtium. Potatoes and white cabbage are bad neighbors for zucchini.
Cabbage cabbage feels great next to dill, celery, onions, garlic, lettuce, potatoes, cucumbers, radishes, beets, beans, spinach, mint, nasturtium, marigolds, and is not friendly with tomatoes, carrots, table beans and climbing beans and peas.
Broccoli compatible with potatoes, onions, carrots, parsley, head lettuce, beets, celery, sage, chard, marigolds. Broccoli does not get along well with tomatoes and beans.
To apusta kohlrabi will be happy to be next to onions, cucumbers, aromatic plants, radishes, lettuce, beets, peas, fennel, spinach. Bad proximity to tomatoes and beans.
To leafy cabbage gets along well with all plants in the garden, but especially with late white cabbage and potatoes.
To the apusta savoy does not get along well with all crops in the garden.
Cauliflower will feel comfortable with potatoes, cucumber, lettuce, celery, beans, beans, dill, hyssop, mint, nasturtium, sage. Neighborhood with tomatoes and strawberries will not work.
Potato gets along well with beans, corn, cabbage, horseradish, eggplant and onions, beans, calendula, corn, onions, radishes, radishes, garlic, but absolutely will not tolerate the proximity of tomatoes, cucumbers, pumpkins, sorrel, fennel.
To the spring salad He will be happy to have radishes next to him, but other plants in the garden will not bother him.
Kruknek and Lagenaria love to grow up alone.
Corn will be favorable to peas, zucchini, late white cabbage, potatoes, cucumbers, pumpkin, beans, beans, and salad. Does not get along well with beets and fennel.
Leek a good neighbor for onions, carrots, celery.
Bulb onions compatible with Brussels sprouts, carrots, lettuce, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes, chicory, savory, potatoes, strawberries. It will feel bad next to peas, radishes, beans, beans, cabbage, and radish.
Garden marjoram Compatible with carrots, but will not tolerate cucumbers nearby.
Carrot It is good to plant next to tomatoes, peas, broccoli, leeks, onions, cucumber, parsley, radishes, lettuce, beets, sage, spinach, radish, celery. Incompatible plants for carrots: dill, anise, fennel, cabbage, chard.
O Gurtsy It is very good to plant with peas or late white cabbage, sweet corn, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, beans, garlic, fennel, but they should not be planted next to potatoes and aromatic herbs. Tomatoes, sage, asparagus, zucchini, rhubarb, turnips, and leeks will also be bad neighbors.
P asternak goes well with salad. But his friendship with onions and garlic fails.
P Attison prefers loneliness, he does not like anyone's proximity.
Pepper compatible with eggplants, tomatoes, basil, carrots, lovage, marjoram, oregano, and onions. Will not be too happy with dill, fennel, cucumber, kohlrabi.
Leaf parsley will be happy to share a bed with basil, onions, cucumbers, asparagus, tomatoes, beans, and carrots. She won’t be too happy with head lettuce.
Reven goes well with peas, cabbage, radishes, lettuce, celery, beans and spinach. But he will not be happy with turnips, potatoes, cucumbers, carrots, radishes, beets, tomatoes and onions.
R edis goes well with cabbage, carrots, turnips, lettuce, tomatoes, beans, beans, fennel, spinach, zucchini, pumpkin. It will not suit its proximity to onions and chard beets.
Radish friends- beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips, cucumber, pumpkin and tomato (plant without thickening), and enemies hyssop, onions, fennel.
Repa feels good next to onions (all types), beets, spinach, celery, lettuce, bush beans, dill. It is important to plant plants freely in the garden bed. Turnips will feel uncomfortable next to potatoes.
From alatu Such neighbors as: cabbage, carrots, beets, dill are suitable.
Beet gets along well with all cabbage, onions, carrots, cucumbers, lettuce, zucchini, garlic, and beans. A bad combination with potatoes and mustard.
Celery compatible with white cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi, onion, tomato, beans, cucumber, spinach. Celery is not compatible with lettuce and potatoes.
With parge grows well next to basil, parsley and tomato. Onions of all kinds are bad neighbors for asparagus.
Tomatoes (tomatoes) will grow well with basil, cabbage, all onions, parsley, radishes, radishes, lettuce, asparagus, beans, garlic, beans, corn, carrots, spinach. Bad companions for tomatoes are peas, potatoes, kohlrabi cabbage, quinoa, cucumbers, turnips, dill, fennel.
Pumpkin goes well with zucchini, squash, and melon. The pumpkin will not be happy only with potatoes.
Beans ordinary grows wonderfully next to peas, cabbages, potatoes, corn, carrots, nightshades, parsley, rhubarb, radishes, cucumbers, beets, and garden savory. Onions, pumpkin, garlic, and fennel do not get along well with common beans.
Bush asol compatible with cucumber, potato, cabbage, lettuce, turnip, radish, radish, rhubarb, celery, spinach, tomato. It will not be a very good combination with asparagus, string beans, zucchini, and fennel.
Horseradish goes well with potatoes.
Ts Ikoriy salad will accept onions, carrots, tomatoes, and fennel well.
Black garden compatible with watercress, onions, parsley, tomatoes, beans, dill, spinach. A cucumber is not suitable as a neighbor.
Garlic will readily make friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsley, lettuce, tomatoes, beets, celery, and beans. Garlic will not grow comfortably next to peas, cabbage, and beans.
Spinach compatible with the following crops: cabbage (all types), potatoes, carrots, turnips, garden strawberries, beets, beans, tomatoes. Zucchini, asparagus, and fennel do not go well with spinach.
For convenience, use the table of crop compatibility in the garden:
Vegetable crop compatibility table:
Culture compatibility table
Another important aspect when selecting components for mixed crops on your site is:
The ability of some plants to repel harmful insects
Onion has a repellent effect on spider mites;
M akhorka for cabbage fly;
Garlic And wormwood cruciferous flea beetles will not like it;
tomatoes have a bad effect on the copperhead and moth;
The smell of celery repels cabbage fly.
You can also fight harmful insects with the help of wild plants
For this, gardeners and gardeners often use infusions.
For example:
The drug from chamomile inflorescences repels and even kills many garden pests.
To prepare the drug, chamomile inflorescences are collected and dried. After which they are ground into powder and mixed with an equal amount of road dust.
For spraying take 200 g. powder, stir in a small amount of water and add water to the norm of 10 liters. This drug is absolutely harmless, and it can be used to treat various crops even before harvesting.
Against aphids and spider mites, which greatly harm cucumbers and cabbage, plants are sprayed with an infusion of potato tops.
In order to prepare such an infusion, we need 1.2 kg of crushed mass. Infuse for 2-3 hours in 10 liters of water and filter.
For the same purpose you can use:
ABOUTcreatures of stepchildren and tomato tops.
To do this, take green mass at the rate of 40 grams per 1 liter of water and, after chopping, boil over low heat for up to 30 minutes. One glass of the decoction obtained in this way is enough for 1 liter of water. Add 30 grams of soap or washing powder to the prepared decoction and spray the plants.
An infusion of onion peels, chamomile, tobacco, garlic, yarrow, horse sorrel roots and dandelion leaves also helps against aphids and mites.
We will tell you more about pests and crop compatibility in detail in future publications.
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