DIY frame doll: photos, step-by-step instructions and interesting ideas. DIY frame doll DIY doll on a wire frame
A frame doll is an original toy that will be an ideal addition to a private collection or room decoration. The cost of such toys is quite high; some copies are even made to order. You can make a doll yourself, showing skills in needlework, imagination in creating an image, and enjoying the process. At the same time, the family budget is saved.
Making the “skeleton” of a toy
A frame doll is a toy whose base is made of flexible material. Wire is often used for these purposes, as it is strong, bends well, is easily deformed, and takes the required shape.
Experienced craftsmen use not just any wire, but a certain type in their work. It is convenient to work with copper, aluminum and steel. Often, material with a diameter of 4 millimeters is selected. This parameter can increase depending on the need for rigidity of the frame and the size of the doll.
To strengthen the overall frame, several wires are sometimes intertwined with each other. In order not to overload the “skeleton” with wire, it is worth strengthening only the most functional areas with several bindings: legs, arms, the torso itself.
Having decided on the dimensions, you should cut two identical pieces of wire from which the legs, torso and head will be formed. Having measured the length of the legs, you can begin to twist the workpieces. The place of twisting is the torso. Having reached the hand position section, you need to take the third piece of wire and intertwine it with the workpiece. After completing the skeleton for the arms, you should continue to form the neck and head in the form of a loop from the main strips of wire.
There are other techniques for forming a wire frame. Each master selects the option that is easiest to work with. Experienced craftsmen make the torso mobile and flexible, connecting all parts of the toy’s body using loops.
What material is suitable for finishing the body?
When the “skeleton” of the toy is ready, you can begin making the body. There are a lot of options here that involve the use of one or another technique, depending on the chosen material.
The body of a frame doll can be made from the following types of materials:
- Polymer clay is suitable for those craftsmen who have sculpting skills. Product from polymer clay will be strong, but not flexible.
- The work uses textiles and synthetic padding; the process is similar to creating a soft toy: a base is sewn and stuffed with soft material.
- The metal frame can be tied using a hook or knitting needles. Creation is similar to working with textiles.
- The body, made using the papier-mâché technique, accurately follows all the lines of a person, but remains too fragile.
- Using the technique used to create motanka dolls, you can easily create a body. Threads, strips of fabric, and ribbons are wound around the frame.
- Forming the base using cotton wool and paper glue. Cotton wool is used to create volume, and paper glue fixes the soft base.
Sometimes several techniques are combined in one product; each element of the doll’s body is created from a certain type of material.
The design is formed with the help of little things: the color of the doll, clothes, hairstyle, jewelry. But the overall image needs to be thought through initially, when choosing a topic. The most popular option for frame dolls is Columbine, which can be found in any collection of a self-respecting collector.
No less interesting are the Harlequin, the clown, the gypsy, the doll in gothic style. More romantic and lighter images are: fairy, angel, girl in a light dress, elf and other fairy-tale characters.
Hand-made frame dolls can have any theme and design that suits the master to complete the collection. To make the product bright, memorable and original, you should pay special attention to the costume, pose and face paint.
Secrets regarding details
In any product that is made by hand, it is important to think through the details and details of the appearance. To better understand the process of creating a unique toy, it is useful to familiarize yourself with master classes. In frame dolls, professionals mostly focus the viewer’s attention on making hair, eyes, eyelashes, and eyebrows.
Masters say that the hardest thing to do is eyes. There are several options for preparing this element: buy ready-made parts from plastic, glass, ceramics, or make your own eyes for the doll: from transparent beads, by drawing on the material, using embroidery.
Eyelashes and eyebrows are shaped in several ways. Most often, these details of a doll’s appearance are made from false eyelashes. Natural fur hairs are used. If the doll is made in a playful style, then the eyelashes are made from loose braid.
To make the doll look more natural, it is better to use natural or synthetic hair. In special departments you can buy hairpins, hairpieces, and strands. Less commonly used are fluffed threads and brocade separated into fibers. This option will distance the doll from resembling a person.
What is needed to crochet a doll
Creating a frame is quite simple for those who know how to knit. This product can be used to decorate the interior, give it as a gift, or use it for games.
To bring your idea to life, you should prepare the necessary tools and materials:
- To create a body, it is recommended to choose beige, white, peach and pink tones.
- To movably attach the arms and legs, you will need buttons.
- The hook number is selected according to the diameter of the thread.
- If the parts of the body are sewn together, you will need silk threads and a needle.
- Katon yarn is suitable for making hair.
- Beads and several colors of floss will become relevant when creating a face.
- Any knitting threads are necessary for the outfit.
- Decorative materials: ribbons, nylon, buttons.
- Prepared wire frame.
- Filler to create volume.
We crochet a small doll without breaking
The most simple option For beginners, there will be a crocheted frame doll (description of the process in the text below). The product is knitted entirely without joining parts. The height of the toy will be approximately 15-18 centimeters.
To create a frame you will need the following materials:
- 50 grams of beige cotton yarn.
- Hook No. 3.
- Sintepon.
- Wire with a cross section of 2 millimeters.
- Long skewers.
Let's get to work: crochet a frame doll
The manufacturing master class consists of describing the procedure. You need to start by knitting certain parts of the body, preferably from the hands. Scheme for getting started:
- Form an amigurumi ring from 6 single crochets.
- In the 2nd row, increase the number of stitches by 2 single crochets.
- We knit the 3rd and 4th rows according to the given algorithm.
- 5th row: 1 single crochet, 2 double crochets in 1 loop, 6 single crochets.
- 1 double crochet, decrease and knit 5 single crochets.
- Decrease the stitches again and knit 5 single crochets.
- Knit 3 rows with 6 single crochets.
- Single crochet, increase, 4 single crochets.
- 2 rows of knitting the resulting 7 single crochets.
- 2 single crochets + increase + 4 single crochets.
- Knit 14 rows with 8 single crochets in each row.
Knitting legs
Now for a knitted frame doll you need to make legs:
- Work begins with the right foot.
- The first row is the same as for the hands.
- Increase in 3 subsequent rows by 1 single crochet.
- Knit 3 rows of 9 single crochets.
- Knitting 4 single crochets, turn the work 4 times.
- In the next row, decreasing after the single crochet, knit 1 loop in the round.
- Add stitches until you have 12 stitches.
- In each subsequent row, decrease stitches until you get 9 loops.
- Knit 6 rows like this.
- Add 1 loop.
- 2 rows are knitted with 10 loops.
- Add 2 loops = 12 loops.
- Knit 7 rows with 12 single crochets.
- Decrease the column.
- Decrease the column again.
To create a knee, you should smoothly decrease the loops to 10, and then gradually restore the initial number again. To create the shape of the hips, it is better not to make any decreases or additions.
In the process of assembling the torso and legs, you will see exactly where to reduce and where to increase the number of rows. Sometimes such correction “by eye” is simply necessary, because knitting often has different densities.
We knit the body and head
Frame amigurumi dolls are very easy to knit if you follow the pattern. The next step will be making the body:
- One leg is attached to the first chain stitch, then 11 single crochets are knitted, adding 3 stitches. Make an air loop, which is the basis for the second leg. 3 more additions and again knit 11 stitches. Close the circle.
- Add one column in each subsequent row until the total is 19.
- Knit 12 rows with 19 stitches.
- Next, the arms are attached in the same pattern as the legs.
- Each row decreases twice.
- When moving to the neck, only 5 columns should remain.
Without looking up from the body, you should start knitting a transition for the head:
- In the next four rows add 5 columns.
- Knit 11 rows of 40 stitches without changes.
- Decrease 4 columns, and in 4 subsequent rows 6 columns each.
- After 12 columns remain, it is worth making another reduction so that 6 columns remain.
Assembling the product
For experienced craftsman A crocheted frame doll is made without seams if the knitting is done by crochet or knitting. During the process, sequential assembly occurs by attaching body parts to air loops.
On knitted dolls, eyes and other facial features are usually embroidered. The “hair” is threaded through with a hook. Next, the outfit is made and decoration is done. An outfit with textile elements will suit a knitted doll.
Creation of costumes and auxiliary equipment
The finished frame doll needs to be beautifully dressed. Sometimes making a costume takes longer than creating the doll itself. You can sew costumes by hand or on a sewing machine.
Some craftsmen sew the outfit directly on the doll. This eliminates a lot of problems:
- The outfit will exactly match the doll's size.
- The manufacturing procedure is simplified and accelerated.
- If you put on separately sewn elements, you can damage the doll.
There are many options and design solutions for creating outfits. Sections can be finished with ribbons, lace, braid, damage - it all depends on the design of the doll itself.
Agree, there is some kind of mystery in the homemade doll. After all, even the master does not always know what kind of toy the end result will be. Do-it-yourself wire dolls are very interesting, since they also use thread wrapping. Wire is a material from which flexible figures can be made, capable of changing poses and “making” very expressive gestures. They can be made together with children, as the process is absolutely simple.
Wire motanka doll
DIY wire dolls in a step-by-step master class
In order to make such a toy, you will need:
- the wire itself (take not very thin);
- thread (string) for winding;
- glue, double-sided tape or glue gun;
- pliers;
- wooden ball or bead for the head.
The wire can be taken without insulation, but then the frame will be rougher and it will be more difficult to give the doll the required position. If you don’t have a suitable ball on hand, you can roll it out of a piece of foil.
![](https://i0.wp.com/handportal.ru/hanportal.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/18.jpg)
The wire length is arbitrary. It all depends on how big you want to make the doll. In this master class, the length of the pieces for the wire doll’s frame is taken to be 27 cm. The third piece of wire is slightly shorter and thinner (it is needed to secure the head). At the ends of the segments you need to remove approximately 0.5-0.8 cm of insulation and bend the cleaned wire into a ring. We also make a doll on a wire frame, only it is woven a little differently.
In this way we prepared a frame for a wire doll. All three pieces of wire are secured with your own hands in the area of the body with double-sided tape, and you get a figure like this.
![](https://i0.wp.com/handportal.ru/hanportal.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/24.jpg)
Then glue or double-sided tape is applied to one half, and the process of winding the thread begins. It is better to start from the foot, gradually applying glue and finish at the tip of the hand. The same is done on the second half of the figurine: as a result, the body is wrapped twice.
![](https://i1.wp.com/handportal.ru/hanportal.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/34.jpg)
Next, the head is secured: if a bead is used, then this is not difficult to do. We simply place it on the wire and secure it. The foil ball must first be pierced with a knitting needle. This must be done carefully so as not to crush it.
![](https://i2.wp.com/handportal.ru/hanportal.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/44.jpg)
Don’t forget that the wire doll we make with our own hands also has a neck, so we try to arrange all the elements of the product in proportion. You need to wrap threads around your neck and head to make it look like this:
![](https://i1.wp.com/handportal.ru/hanportal.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/54.jpg)
For hair we use yarn, which every needlewoman probably has in stock. We cut it into pieces of the same length and fasten it in the middle with the same thread: just stitch it with the seam forward with a needle.
![](https://i1.wp.com/handportal.ru/hanportal.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/64.jpg)
Using a glue gun, the hair or, more simply, the wig is attached to the head.
![](https://i1.wp.com/handportal.ru/hanportal.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/74.jpg)
![](https://i1.wp.com/handportal.ru/hanportal.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/83.jpg)
If we draw an analogy, our wire doll is very similar to a motanka doll (after all, we wrapped the wire frame with twine). But they are usually not painted, i.e. they do not have a face on them. But we will make an attempt and draw eyes, lips with felt-tip pens, and also blush our cheeks.
![](https://i1.wp.com/handportal.ru/hanportal.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/92.jpg)
Well, your DIY wire doll is almost ready. Now we need to dress her up. To do this, we cut out a skirt and blouse from knitwear (at random). Using a hook, we decorate the bottom and the belt on the skirt.
![](https://i0.wp.com/handportal.ru/hanportal.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/103.jpg)
This is how the doll will look in summer in warm weather.
![](https://i1.wp.com/handportal.ru/hanportal.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/112.jpg)
But it’s winter now, look how frosty it is outside!.. Let’s make her felt boots and a fashionable coat.
We will make boots for a wire doll with our own hands from felt or pieces of drape and sew them with yarn to match the finish. The front of the shoe is decorated with braid.
![](https://i1.wp.com/handportal.ru/hanportal.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/122.jpg)
![](https://i2.wp.com/handportal.ru/hanportal.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/131.jpg)
![](https://i0.wp.com/handportal.ru/hanportal.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/141.jpg)
A short coat with a fashionable modern cut will reliably protect our doll from any cold weather.
![](https://i0.wp.com/handportal.ru/hanportal.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/151.jpg)
![](https://i1.wp.com/handportal.ru/hanportal.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/161.jpg)
Is it true that we quickly managed to make a wire doll with our own hands? How are your kids? What happened to them? Maybe it’s easier for them to do it, like in our new MK?
![](https://i1.wp.com/handportal.ru/hanportal.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/171.jpg)
Well, today you learned how to make a doll from wire and another resident has settled in your doll collection. Let's call her Vanessa. Is the name suitable?
Thanks to Natalya Shanaeva for another master class on making dolls in different techniques. That's all for today. I’m sure you know what to do if you liked the master class... 😉 I’ll give you a hint - the buttons at the bottom of the article... See you!
How to make a doll with your own hands? How to avoid annoying mistakes? What to make the head, arms, legs, torso from? These and countless other questions may come to mind for a person just planning to make a doll. It often happens that the simplicity of technology is confusing. In my master class, I would like to offer a fairly detailed sequence of actions that is convenient when creating a frame doll. Here are both well-known truths and some know-how. It is possible that while working on your doll, you will find other, simpler and more convenient techniques and methods. All in your hands! Create!
First of all, an idea is needed. It doesn’t have to be fully realized, but it’s necessary to make a few sketches. Sometimes just so as not to forget details.
From wire (preferably steel: copper and aluminum are quite fragile), you need to twist the doll’s frame, its “skeleton” with the following increases: +8 cm to the length of the neck, +5 cm to the length of the arms to the hands. Mark on it the location of your elbows and knees. Sculpt from plasticine simple form for the head.
Using the papier-mâché technique, make a blank for the head. It must have at least 5 layers, each of which must be dried.
Using the same technique, make those parts of the doll’s body that you want to see solid (in this doll these are the legs to the knees).
You can also make pens using the papier-mâché technique. But for this doll I make different hands.
Prepare fine sanding paper (“skin”), Prepare the legs and head blanks: carefully cut off the excess layers of paper from the legs with a breadboard knife, cut the head blank in half, remove the plasticine, glue the “skull” halves and dry.
Press the pieces of sanding paper firmly against the surface to sand the parts.
The parts should be smooth and pleasant to the touch.
Prepare stacks and other tools for modeling. In addition, we will need toilet paper and paste.
Using toilet paper and paste, mix the modeling mixture until it reaches the consistency of a stiff dough. From this mass we form small facial features.
We cover the resulting relief with thin strips of newspaper, dry it, and sand it.
Using any fillers (cotton wool, padding polyester, batting) we form the volume of the body.
We wrap the wire frame with filler, fixing it with turns of thread.
From thick copper wire (0.7 - 1.5 mm depending on the scale of the doll), we cut sections for the fingers and palms with a small margin.
We cover the pieces of wire with a thin cloth and collect the pieces in the palm.
Using the allowance laid down at the beginning along the length of the arms, we fasten the bundle of wires collected in the palm to the arm.
We prepare the material for covering the filler and smoothing the relief (calico, knitwear, in this doll - felt).
We cover areas of the doll's body with pieces of felt.
We prime the legs and head with acrylic paints and prepare them for painting.
We cover the areas that will be visible with thin “skin” fabric. These are the hips.
As well as the neck, shoulders and palms.
We select fabrics and accessories for the doll dress.
If the dress is planned to be permanent, then its elements are sewn in layers, overlapping each other.
Sleeves are also made.
And the bodice of the dress.
We make a boa and muff from pieces of fur, taffeta and cord.
Finally you can paint your face. This could have been done earlier, but more often I finish the outfit so that I can have a general color scheme do beautiful makeup. For painting I use tempera and acrylic paints.
You can paint with anything, but it is better to add an acrylic base or a drop of matte acrylic varnish to make the paints waterproof. In addition to the head, we also paint the legs.
Paint your face with thin brushes to make your work more accurate.
We dry the painted parts and coat them with acrylic matte varnish. This will protect the painting from damage and provide additional moisture resistance.
Then apply clear nail polish or glossy acrylic varnish to shiny surfaces (eyes, lips). But for some reason the nail polish shines brighter.
We dress the doll with haberdashery - stockings, tights.
We will make hair from pieces of satin ribbon.
We unravel each section, equal in length to the expected length of the hair (for a short haircut, be sure to give an allowance of 1 - 2 cm) not reaching 5 mm from the edge. It is to this unraveled area that you need to glue the hair, row by row.
The result is a beautiful hairstyle in the “early morning” style.
Human eyelashes can also be used for doll eyelashes if you want to achieve a theatrical effect. For a more natural look, you need to purchase special doll eyelashes. They are sold in the form of ribbons and one such ribbon is enough for several dolls.
In the case of human false eyelashes, take one and cut it in half. We glue these eyelashes onto the doll's upper eyelid.
The doll is almost ready, only the shoes remain.
Made from velvet cardboard, leather, taffeta, polyurethane heels and lace
You can make these simple sandals.
And you can go for a walk!
More detailed master class for making a frame doll, see
The synthetic winterizer should be cut into long strips. Before cutting, check in which direction it stretches better and breaks faster, and cut the ribbons across this weak side so that when winding it does not unravel from tension. We wrap the wire with these “ribbons”, stretching the padding polyester. This is necessary in order for the “body” to be dense. How much to wind depends on how slim you want the doll to be. You can secure the tip of the padding polyester to start winding with a pin, and then pull it out when the winding is completed. It is better to start wrapping from the limbs, and attach the “tails” to the “body”. Making a wireframe doll Don't forget to leave the wire "tails". You will need to attach molding parts to them! Making a frame doll Try to use padding polyester to give the doll figure a shape close to a human one. Making a frame doll And now we have a body. Or rather, it almost happened. Because now it needs to be covered with knitwear. Making a frame doll It is better to take light-colored knitwear, and one that does not give arrows. Otherwise, you will be tortured to sew up these arrows later. I was “lucky” with knitwear, and yet I had to fight with these same arrows. True, there were still not so many of them. We also check the knitwear before cutting it. In which direction it stretches better, in which direction it stretches worse. Relative to our frame, the knitwear should stretch better from top to bottom, and worse - in width. Why do this? Now it will become clear. So... we put our “carcass” on the knitwear, using the wire “neck” we pierce a hole in the knitwear, but not tearing it, but pushing the fibers apart. So as not to get "arrows" in abundance. It's difficult, but it can be achieved. Making a frame doll We measure and cut. Making a frame doll We cut it short. But due to the fact that the knitwear stretches perfectly “from top to bottom” along the “growth” of the carcass, we will stretch it when sewing and stretch it just to the end of the legs. In general, the length of the fabric can be varied. It all depends on what part of the legs you are going to sculpt. Only the feet, or almost to the knee. Making a frame doll We stretch and pin the figure along the silhouette with pins. We cut off the excess knitwear. Making a frame doll And we sew it together, trying to make a neat seam, hiding the edges of the knitwear. I sew with an over-the-edge stitch, trying to make very small stitches. Voila - the frame is ready. Making a frame doll Now - the molded parts. I sculpted my legs almost to the knees and my arms to the elbows. Take a closer look at them. There are holes in the center of the molded parts where the wire will be inserted. Making a frame doll And along the edge of the part that will come into contact with the “body” there is a hollow. Quite deep. The deeper the hollow, the better it will be possible to cover the joint with fabric and hide the “fastening”. Making a frame doll Usually for dolls they sculpt the head on the neck and stop there. The head is fixed to the frame in the same way as the arms and legs. But I made it difficult for myself. I needed the doll to be able to wear a shirt that opens and still show her breasts. Therefore, I molded the chest with a neck in the form of an overlay for the frame. Like a knight's armor. In addition, my doll must turn its head. To do this, I made the head separately from the neck. There is a hole in the top of the neck through which I will then attach the doll’s head to the body. Making a frame doll I connected the chest to the head with an elastic band. My head is hollow, since the eyes are inserted from the inside, and the skull is made with a lid, in the manner of articulated dolls. So I connected the head to the chest with an elastic band. Under the chest, the elastic band is attached to the frame; in the head it clings to a hook. This way my wireframe doll can move its head. Making a frame doll We insert wire tails into the finished parts of the arms and legs, stretch the knitwear on top and stitch it several times, trying to “sink” the fabric into the hollows prepared in advance. This way she won't jump off. For greater strength, the holes in the molded parts can be filled with fresh material (I sculpted from LaDoll plastic, and when inserting the tails of the wire frame into the molded part, I added a little raw LaDoll mixed with PVA glue into the hole. This way the material will adhere to the part and the wire and handles -the legs will sit on the frame more firmly. Making a frame doll We put on our doll - and it’s ready. The arms and legs bend, the head turns. But don’t overdo it, the wire can withstand a limited number of bends! I hope my express tutorial will help you create your first doll Believe me, this is very interesting!
In the photo you also see floral tape, thread, and toilet paper. These materials will be useful to us a little later.
Before I start working on the doll’s frame, I think through the image, sculpt the head and arms. Having a ready-made doll head, I can determine the height of the doll. In this case, the height of the head is 5 cm, the estimated height of the doll is about 40 cm. You can start working with the frame and sculpt the head later. It’s easier for me to determine the size of a doll’s body depending on the size of the head, and not vice versa.
To create a frame, you need to know some proportions of the human body.
The ratio of the head to the height of an adult varies from approximately 1:7 to 1:8,
half the height gives the point of the pubic symphysis of the pelvis,
shoulder width is equal to two head heights (or three widths),
arm length – 3 head heights,
elbow at waist level,
The size of the thigh is approximately equal to the size of the lower leg and is about 2 head heights.
The width of a woman's pelvis is approximately equal to the width of her shoulders.
I will be guided by these ratios when making the doll’s frame.
First of all, I will prepare several pieces of wire ranging from 50 cm to a meter in length.
1. Take 2 pieces of wire of approximately the same length (80-100 cm), bend them in half, we get 2 pieces of wire with a bend at the top and 4 tails at the bottom. We form the neck, to do this we step back 3-5 cm from the bend of the wire (we will determine the height taking into account the fact that part of the wire will go into the doll’s head) and bend the tails perpendicular to the neck, 2 on each side. We got an inverted letter T with a long upper (we have lower) crossbar. Forming the shoulders. To do this, bend the tails of the wire down on both sides, stepping back from the “neck” on both sides to a distance slightly larger than the width of the head. Create a waist. We twist all the tails together at waist level (about 2 head heights from the top of the doll’s chin to the waist).
Next is the pelvis. We spread the wire tails shoulder-width apart and lower them down. The result can be seen in the next photo on the left.
There are a lot of words, but almost all these actions are done within one minute. It will be easier later.
2. Bend a new piece of wire (length 50-60 cm) in half, and bend it again, see photo above. The fold is round, the width of the pelvis. The rounded bend will create the pubic articulation of the pelvis, the tails are the future legs of the doll. We combine the started doll frame with the new element. See the photo below (left).
The height of the resulting structure without taking into account the legs (from the doll’s chin to the pubic joint is 3 doll heads. Mine is 15 cm. We connect both parts using electrical tape. Strongly, reliably, so that the height of the pelvis does not change. Can be secured with wire, medical tape, heat gun, etc. The main thing is that the parts do not move relative to each other. Look at the photo on the left.
3. Making handles. We take a new piece of wire, bend it in half, and form the shoulders. To do this, we apply our new piece of wire to the frame in the shoulder area and bend the wire down on both sides. The result was “handles”. In the photo above on the right.
The length is not important yet; you can always bite off the excess with pliers. We fasten the part to the frame using electrical tape. Result in the photo:
4. Next I shape the chest. This is not a mandatory step, but its presence makes future winding of the frame easier. We take another piece of wire (50-60 cm), form a rounded bend (letter P, top bar with rounded ends). The width of the “letter P” is approximately 1.5 times the width of the doll’s head. We bend the top bar of the “letter P” by 1.5-3 cm. We get the figure shown in the photo (left).
Again, easier to do than to describe. In the photo, the wire lies unevenly, the upper element is symmetrical on both sides. I attach the “chest” in the chest area. I fix it with electrical tape in the sternum and waist area. Let's look at the photo.
The tails from this piece of wire will help in creating the doll's butt. This is also an optional step; it helps me with winding. We simply bend the wire to the shape of the buttocks, spread them from the waist down to the legs and fix both tails on the legs, one on the left, the other on the right. In the photo, the ends of the wire are not yet fixed.
Here's what we have at this stage:
We now have five wires in our legs, their number can be changed depending on the wire you use, the height and weight of the doll, and the method of attaching it to the stand. I do not twist the wires together, but wrap them in a spiral either with additional wire of a smaller cross-section, or with tails of wire left over when forming the buttocks.
Let's try on the doll's head, first bend the arms at the elbows, and look at the result.
Let's check the symmetry, we can form the curve of the spine.
Now the arms and legs are much longer than necessary. It’s more convenient for me to cut off the excess later.
And now I will bend the ends of the wire and wrap them with electrical tape so that they do not interfere with further work and didn't get scratched.
Next, work begins on shaping the doll's body. I will show my method in a separate master class.
1
We continue to work on shaping the doll's body.
To do this, we will need an already made doll frame, any spool threads, floral tape or adhesive tape, scissors and most importantly - da-da-da-dam - half a roll of toilet paper.
Do you love toilet paper as much as I do? This is one of the most rewarding and malleable materials. It’s also inexpensive and easily accessible). The paper you need is very ordinary, gray.
Why do I like to use paper for winding, and not strips of padding polyester, for example? I sometimes work with padding polyester, padding polyester, and cord. When using toilet paper (hereinafter referred to as TB), it is easier for me to gradually form the required volumes; the process is slow, because... The layers of paper are thin, all mistakes can be easily corrected immediately. Depending on the width paper strip The workspace involved also changes. Using TB gives a fairly dense body, but flexible for changing posture. Yes, and it is possible to pierce the carcass with a needle if desired (for example, when decorating clothes or attaching accessories).
If you need a completely rigid structure, then the TB body can be primed with PVA. Sometimes after wrapping the TB with the final layer, I use an ordinary medical bandage, which I prime with diluted PVA. TB can be combined with padding polyester winding. In general, creativity is always welcome))).
First I prepare the material: I tear off strips of toilet paper about a meter long. I put some of the strips aside, fold some in half several times and tear them in the middle (I actually tear them, not cut them, I need torn edges so that the winding elements smoothly transition into each other and there are no sharp breaks in the shape). It is advisable to also make the outer edges of the paper torn, tearing at least a couple of mm at random. I forgot to do this and was wrong). I tear some of the strips into 3 parts, and some into 4. Now that the materials are ready, you can start working.
- We take the frame, 2 prepared solid sections of TB, crumple each section into a lump, fill the sternum of the future doll with one lump, and the pelvic area with the second. We do this so that there are no voids inside the body and it does not “walk.” Fill it quite tightly and secure it with thread if necessary. The result is in the photo.
- I start wrapping from the doll's waist. I swing solid pieces of TB in one direction. Quite tight. If necessary, I fix it with threads when I move from one piece of TB to another. Let's look at the photo.
- Next, I wrap the shoulders crosswise several times, and again I go around the chest area. Now I use scraps of paper that have already been torn in half. Photo:
- We wrap the handles. Depending on the size of the doll, you will need TB pieces either torn into 3 or 4 parts. I start winding from above, grabbing the shoulder and chest (I make one or two turns along the torso, then switch to the handle). I wind the paper in a spiral, tightly, stretching the paper during the winding process. The main thing is not to overdo it, so as not to tear the paper))). I wind it to the place where, according to my plan, the molded part of the hand will begin, and continue winding in the opposite direction. It is important that the layers of paper adhere tightly to each other. The turns go diagonally, slightly overlapping. Do not forget that the hand has a certain relief, the winding should repeat it. We don't want to end up with two sticks on the sides of the torso. In places where muscle tissue is located, the number of layers of winding can be increased (walk the paper back and forth several times in one place). We always fix it with threads if necessary. Don't forget about your elbows. If the doll is static and its arm must be bent, you can wrap a wad of TB in the elbow area and secure it with threads. Intermediate results in the photo.
- I continue to work with the chest. I wrap TB lumps in the chest area with paper strips and secure them with thread. I form the back in the same way, only instead of lumps of paper I use a piece of TB folded in several layers. Pay attention to the area of the shoulder blades so that the back does not appear too sunken or hunchbacked. We correct the curvature of the spine, if necessary.
- Next I work on the lower body. The legs are formed similarly to the arms. I have a sculpted part of my leg above the knee, so I only sculpt the hips. If you need to shape the leg below the knee, we proceed in the same way as working on the handles. Don't forget about the muscles and knees. The leg should also not look like a stick. We fix the paper tails with threads, if necessary. When wrapping the legs, I, as in the case of the arms, start with one or two turns around the pelvic area. This helps the paper hold better. This way we will avoid scrolling the paper around its axis in an already wound state. And don’t forget that the paper is always wound in one direction on one limb. On the other limb, it’s better in the opposite direction, but also all the segments are in the same direction! Otherwise, each subsequent piece of paper will tend to unwind the previous one and the winding will not be dense and rigid.
- Finally, we work with the pelvis. We form the buttocks, tummy, groin area. Where possible, we use wads of paper, wrapped in strips and secured with threads. Where this does not work, we simply continue wrapping with TB tapes half a roll or a third wide. When wrapping, we grab the upper part of the thighs, pass the paper between the doll’s legs, and wrap the paper around the waist.
- We look carefully at what is happening and correct those areas that do not suit us. We fix the paper tails with threads. Let's look at the photo. Here the ends of the TB stick out, they don’t bother me, but they can be glued. The carcass will look more aesthetically pleasing.
- Please note that the wrapping of the doll's limbs becomes thinner downwards. I do this on purpose. When trying on the arms and legs, I will adjust the length and width of their winding. It’s easier for me to increase the missing volumes than to reduce the existing ones))).
- When wrapping the doll's body with paper is completed, I carry out the final wrapping with either floral tape or a bandage, followed by a primer with diluted PVA or slip, or a medical plaster. You can prime the TB carcass directly. Here I show wrapping with floral tape. I chose a bright color for contrast. It is, of course, better to work with the color of the ribbon that is present in the suit. Or use flesh tones, maybe white. It is easier to wind in the direction of expansion. That is, from the waist to the pelvis, from the waist to the chest, from the knee to the groin, etc. We wind it tightly, but without over-tightening. Overlapping, slightly oblique. Hands - we go down, we come back. Shoulders - first crosswise, then we pass the tape around the torso several times. We adjust the body position if necessary. I don’t fix my hands firmly and don’t wrap them around them; later I’ll look for the right position. If you know the position of the doll for sure, wrap the shoulder joint tightly several times until it becomes motionless.
- It takes a long time to describe, but it’s easy and fairly quick to do. For me, this is one of the most pleasant and meditative stages of work))). You can always play with volume and reliefs and, based on the same frame, get completely different doll carcasses.
Hello.
I suggest making similar stylized faces so that you can use them for decoration in the future.
I will need them to create Christmas decorations. I want to make souvenir Christmas tree pendants, snowflakes, flowers, for example, like this:
For work we will need the following materials:
self-hardening modeling clay (I use Darvy Pop);
sculpting stacks (I use dental tools);
brushes and wet wipes for smoothing the surface;
a container of water to moisten the clay if necessary;
the surface on which we will sculpt.
I took a plastic circle with a diameter of 3 cm from some children's game for work. It will be a limiter for me on the size and shape of my face. You can use whatever is convenient for you - a cardboard circle, a jar lid, etc.
Let's get started.
1. Distribute a small piece of clay evenly over the surface of the circle. The thickest layer is in the center, gradually disappearing towards the edges.
2. We draw two lines with a suitable tool, you can simply use an awl or a gypsy needle.
3. Select excess clay.