Stewberry tomato
Why do tomatoes stepchild
How to pinch tomatoes or not pinch a plant at all - everyone decides for himself. Some varieties of tomatoes without pinching sometimes fully yield a harvest in their natural environment, they can do without such a procedure.
The lateral green branches on the tomato are completely useless. Being an extra green mass, they are undesirable for a rich harvest. If you remove them, the fruits will receive more nutrients. The size of the stepsons for removal is 3-5 centimeters. Removing large ones can damage and affect growth. Only persimmon does not require pinching, as a tomato variety that grows on its own.
However, it is worth learning that a rich harvest can only be obtained from healthy plants, and many gardeners fully resort to fertilizers and other methods to achieve the desired result. Accordingly, the removal of excess shoots is a process that can give strength to the sprout, save trace elements and nutrients for the fruits, without spending extra energy on germinating side shoots.
Plant care is not limited to controlling the growth process and creating favorable environmental conditions. Lateral stems can overgrow, causing a drop in yield. Normally, only some tomatoes can grow without outside intervention.
How to do it right
Determinant tomato varieties are sure to be pinned. They stop growing on their own, and branch weakly. The ways to achieve the desired result are pretty simple. How to pinch tomatoes correctly? Before 3-4 brushes appear on the plant, the stem should be left alone. After the sprouts appear, two stems are left, and one of them should be stronger. The frequency of the brush placement is also very important - each brush after the first is placed after 2 or three sheets. The fewer such brushes on a plant, the more it needs shaping from the gardener.
Determinant plantings are pinned in such a way that one stem remains. Several inflorescences will help you harvest earlier. It is not necessary to pinch the growth point. A couple of leaves are left - all this is necessary to enable the inflorescences to ripen at the same time.
The fewer stems left on each tomato, the better the harvest will be. Low, that is, determinant varieties of tomatoes sometimes grow quite richly, their stems branch out quite strongly. Five to seven inflorescences per plant can produce an acceptable yield. The first fruits suspend the tillering process. However, these varieties are very slow to feed their fruits, since a large number of them require many vitamins of the same type.
The harvest is given much later - one bush must feed already grown tomatoes, and at the same time provide a complex of minerals and vitamins for the same small fruits, which can be from 10 to 15. For the same reasons, the size of the fruits can suffer - we get very small, although we win in their quantity.
Indeterminate tomato varieties have a very strong one main shoot, yield more yield and ripen later than undersized varieties. Almost all varieties of tall tomatoes lend themselves to pickling. 2-3 stems form the full growth of the plant. Subspecies - "cream", and the like, require more sprouts. They also depend on weather conditions, if summer lasts longer than usual, then more fruit brushes can be left, as well as growing stems. Indeterminate tomatoes tend to grow very vigorously on their own, so the growth process must be controlled in order to obtain a rich harvest.
It is important to have time to remove the shoots even before the first brush with fruits appears. 6, 8 or 10 leaves are a sign that a fruit cluster will appear soon.
Branches appear in the axils of each leaf, and can grow large enough until the time we require. The shoots that grow lower try faster - the benefits of them in this case are obvious. Therefore, tall indeterminate types of tomato are necessarily pinned - after all, a high stem makes it possible to grow very strongly, bush and create lateral shoots that require moisture and energy.
When is the best time to pinch
The best option for pinching tomatoes would be to carry out the procedure once a week. However, this period is not unique or mandatory. In closed ground, remove excess shoots more often. The process of mechanically removing such shoots in low-growing species is a little more difficult, because they are lush and it can be difficult to get to the required areas.
When to start pinching tomatoes? The sprouts are best cut or removed with gloved hands while still small, 3-5 centimeters long. A large shoot can cause problems in plant growth. The tomato does not notice the removal of the shoot with its small size, and it will not get sick.
In the greenhouse
Grassing tomatoes in a greenhouse should have its own separate goal - to extend the fertility of each plant. Another task is to increase the yield. In the greenhouse, the determinant varieties of tomatoes are bred most often. Greenhouses can be used for almost six months, hybrids and indeterminate varieties are suitable for greenhouse cultivation to the fullest. Different varieties are processed in different ways.
Determinant varieties grow in such a way that the main stem should be left to them. How to pinch tomatoes in a greenhouse correctly? This should be done much more often than outdoors. Medium and tall tomatoes should not have reserve shoots, since the development of inflorescences does not affect growth. Since in the greenhouse there will be fewer inflorescences on the main stem than usual, you can plant the tomatoes closer to each other.
In the open field
In the open field, it is correct to remove sprouts even before the appearance of the fruit part. It usually appears after 6-8 or 10 leaves appear. The sinuses of each leaflet are capable of producing lateral processes. How to pinch tomatoes outdoors? The answer is simple - as soon as the first fruit cluster appears, such stepchildren can already be quite large. In addition, the lateral stems are located below the shoot and feed faster.
If you do not follow the established pattern, the fruit clusters will be forced to lay through the leaf, and in the bosom there will be a stepson, sufficiently developed for growth. Thus, the grower can get a huge amount of green mass and very little harvest. Therefore, pinching should not be neglected. Tomatoes that do not require pinching will not create a critical mass, which qualitatively affects the yield increase.
In especially undersized shoots, 1-2 stems are left after the processing process. So the fruits will ripen only on the first inflorescences. On one stem, one shoot is left, on two - one stepson is left, and on three - another one below. Each of them must create up to three inflorescences. Three stalks create the likelihood of getting green unripe tomatoes among the fruits.
Video "Tomato grazing"
A note on how to properly pinch tomatoes in a greenhouse. After watching the video, you will learn how to form bushes of indeterminate and semi-determinate tomatoes.
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Pickling tomatoes in the open field. Fundamental rules
Grassing tomatoes in the open field is necessary to increase yields. By cutting off the side shoots, the gardener does not allow the bush to waste energy on growing greenery, thereby strengthening the ovary and reducing the number of unnecessary fruits. Since a strictly limited time is allotted for the growth of seedlings, as well as the ripening of fruits, gardeners have to make every effort to get a decent harvest. Depending on the climatic conditions, it takes about six months to grow vegetables. Cold spring and early frosts do not at all contribute to unhindered fruiting.
Correct pinching of a tomato allows you to limit flowering, thin out the bush, and direct all your forces to the growth and ripening of the main fruits. If you do nothing, then the plants will become very dense, many side shoots will grow on them, which will give an ovary. As a result, there will be many fruits, but they will be small. In addition, it will not be possible to harvest on time, since the tomatoes will not have time to ripen. You can not wait for the fruits at all, because thickened plantings do not allow enough light to pass through and are poorly ventilated, causing various diseases, including rot.
Grassing tomatoes in the open field brightens the bush, so that all the fruits get sunlight, which speeds up their ripening. Stepchildren grow above the leaves from the leaf sinuses, they need to be pinched, leaving a stump about a centimeter in size to avoid the growth of a new shoot. Before dealing with the processing of bushes, it is necessary to determine the variety of tomatoes and the type of growth, it can be indeterminate or deterministic. The second do not need to be pinned, because each shoot is tipped, and such tomatoes grow only up to a certain point. Tomato pickling in the open field is necessary for indeterminate varieties, since they grow all summer.
It is not always necessary to form a bush into one trunk, in order to hedge it is worth leaving three stepsons. If a strong wind tilts the tomatoes, then you should not rush to tie them to pegs. If the space on the site allows, then you can arrange the plant horizontally along the ground. After a while, roots will appear on the trunk, and the stepsons will grow upward. In this form, they practically do not interfere with each other, the competition for nutrients is small, and the light passes well and gets to the fruits.
Pickling tomatoes in the open field should also be applied to tall varieties. In such tomatoes, first of all, you need to remove the lower shoots, since they receive the least amount of light, which means that the chance of getting a crop there is small. Two or three stepsons should be left under the first flower brushes, but no more. If it is necessary to increase the number of seedlings, then this can be done with the help of side shoots, they take root well. To do this, you need to pinch the tomatoes (the photo will help you understand the process itself), the torn off shoots should be put in water. After a couple of days, the roots will appear, and after another week you can plant them in open ground.
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Growing determinate tomatoes - shaping and pinching
Growing and shaping determinate tomatoes
It is profitable to grow tomatoes of a determinant type of growth, they are able to set fruits in any conditions, therefore they are suitable for open ground not only in the south, but also in the middle lane.
When planting in greenhouses, they take up very little space and can be content with tunnel-type shelters. They are very productive, it is enough just to form and tie up the bush correctly. They stop growth on their own.
Varieties and hybrids of the determinant type of growth are very popular among amateur vegetable growers.
Their plants are weak (1.0-1.3 m) and medium-sized (1.2-1.3 m), have a compact bush. Restriction of the growth of the main shoot occurs after the formation of 4-6 shoots, and then the stepson continues to grow.
The first inflorescence on the plant forms above the 6-7th leaf, the subsequent ones are located in 1-2, sometimes follow each other.
Determinant type tomatoes growths are easily formed. The second wave of vegetative growth in them begins earlier than in superdeterminant ones, and is observed almost immediately after the formation of fruits on the first inflorescences.
As a rule, these are mid-early varieties and hybrids, in which 105-115 days pass from germination to the first harvest.
Three important nuances in growing determinant tomatoes
Tomato bush formation
The photo on the left - the formation of a tomato bush in one stem, the photo on the right - the formation of tomatoes in two stalks
1. It is advisable to combine the first pinching of tomatoes with a garter of plants to supports or a trellis. I begin to do this in such a way as to have time to remove the stepsons before the first brush opens.
2. The stepchildren break out with their hands until their length does not exceed 4-5 cm. At this time they easily come off, small wounds in the leaf axils quickly overgrow. With their timely removal, hemp is usually not left, their presence does not affect the growth of new ones.
But with gray rot, as I noticed, such nodes are more affected. But if the stepson is missed and greatly outgrown, then, removing him, it is better to leave a stump: a large paana on the main stem is an open gate for infection.
3. All work on the formation of tomatoes is carried out only in dry weather. On the eve of tomatoes, it is better not to water or feed them.
Stepsons determinant tomatoes
Determinant tomatoes must be grazed. All methods are quite simple, mainly using one or more stepchildren at the top of the plant.
From personal experience
I have been growing a hybrid for a long time Verlioko having a determinant type of growth. This is, as they say, my workhorse: in any weather it will provide both an early harvest to eat, and a plentiful one - for processing into juices, ketchup and seaming. For a long time she let it go into two stems, forming the second of the stepson growing from under the first inflorescence.
Now I form a tomato into one stem, until the plant throws out 3-4 brushes on the main stem, then I start at two, choosing any strong stepson for this.
After 1-2 inflorescences, I can leave one more, already the third. It all depends on the weather. I reckon so that the harvest has time to form by the end of September. I have a glass greenhouse.
I came to the conclusion that the formation of two stems at once noticeably slows down the development of the tomato. Therefore, at first I give him to gain strength, and only then I load with the harvest.
I plant 2.8-3.0 plants per square meter, by the time the first brush ripens, gradually removing one leaf once a week. This technique improves the ventilation of the bushes, inhibits the development of diseases, and, most importantly, ensures the outflow of nutrients to the fruits.
Grassing and shaping a tomato bush
Grassing and forming a tomato bush
1. At the same time, in one stalk, while stepson in the upper part, do not rush to cut off all the stepsons.
Always leave at least two reserve ones so that the plant continues its growth in the future at the expense of one of them (the weaker one is removed) as soon as the main stem stops growing.
This is the easiest way. It is good for both open ground and small greenhouses.
2. In one stem, leaving 2-3 stepchildren with 2-3 inflorescences on each. At the same time, lateral shoots are left on the main stem, located in the stepchildren of the leaves under the inflorescences.
3. Constantly transfer growth to the lateral shoot. It is formed from a stepson located in the axil of the 3rd sheet. In this case, the main stem is pinched over the 3-4th inflorescence, leaving 1-2 leaves.
Then, on the formed shoot from the stepson, which has grown in the axil of the first leaf under the first inflorescence, the next continuation shoot is formed, and the previous one is pinched, leaving 1-3 leaves above the second inflorescence. And so they continue as long as the space in the greenhouse allows.
N.ZASTENKINA, agronomist Photos and drawings by the author
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How to pinch tomatoes in a greenhouse correctly
The pickling of a tomato in a greenhouse largely determines the quality and quantity of the crop taken from the plants. Unfortunately, this agrotechnical technique is performed by many summer residents fundamentally incorrectly, or is completely ignored. And this happens due to ignorance.
Some do not know how to properly pinch tomatoes grown in a greenhouse or in the open field. Others do not know what exactly and how to do it. Most often, you can find a situation when they simply try to remove leaves from plants. Although such a technique takes place in the agricultural technology of growing tomatoes, it has nothing to do with our procedure. More details can be found on the agrarian forum http://www.agroxxi.ru/forum. We will return to the pinning procedure.
First you need to figure out what pinching means. In fact, this is nothing more than the conservative removal of unnecessary lateral shoots. They usually grow from the leaf sinuses. In the process of growth, new leaf plates and shoots of the 2nd level are formed on them. It is due to the growth of the stepsons that the tomato bush branches out. On the branches of the second level, ovaries can also form and fruits form. Due to such shoots, the plant gains green mass and thickens.
What does the pinching procedure give to tomatoes?
Grazing is an important agricultural technique for indeterminate or tall tomato varieties. With a number of advantages, these varieties are mainly grown in greenhouses. They are much more resistant to diseases such as late blight. Their fruiting is stretched out in time, which makes it possible to always have fresh fruits before the first frost. In addition, tall tomatoes yield more yields and are easier to pinch.
Reception of pinching tomatoes in a greenhouse is carried out for the following purposes:
- Give the plants enough light;
- Redistribute and improve the nutrition of fruit twigs;
- Extend the period of fruiting;
- Get an early harvest;
- Give the fruit the opportunity to fully ripen.
When growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, plantings should never be thickened. Adequate lighting promotes more complete protein synthesis. For this reason, even rarely planted tomato bushes must be pinned to improve their illumination. In addition, air circulation is disturbed in thickened bushes. Which will certainly lead to infection of plants with late blight.
A large number of tomatoes on bushes that have not been pinched take a very long time to ripen. Most often, summer residents, without waiting for the full ripening of the fruits, are forced to pick them green and ripen them on the windowsills.
INTERESTING: Speaking about the number of fruits and their weight, it is worth noting that the total yield of the bush changes little. Someone prefers to grow small tomatoes with a small mass, and someone large - but weighty.
How to pinch greenhouse tomatoes
Before proceeding with pinching, you need to decide how many stems the tomato bushes will have. If you chose indeterminate (tall) varieties, then the formation of stems in bushes can have three options:
- Formation of one stem;
- Formation of bushes into two stems;
- Formation into three stems.
It does not make sense to form a larger number of stems, since the tomatoes will thicken. Therefore, they need to be planted less often. In addition, the terms of fruit ripening will increase. At the same time, the amount of harvest per unit area will remain constant.
When forming tomato bushes in a greenhouse, it is better to give preference to the single-stem version. An ideal option would be the planting scheme proposed by Meatlider:
- The distance between the plants should be about 20 cm.
- The distance between the rows is about 140 cm.
In this case, with correct pinching of tomato bushes, all side shoots break out. In this case, all shoots are removed under the first fruit brush. If the stem bifurcates at its apex, then the strongest shoot is left, and its counterpart is also removed. This procedure should be carried out regularly every 5-7 days. Thus, the maximum illumination of the bush and its ventilation is achieved.
Forming a tomato bush into two stalks, pinching is carried out so that, in addition to the main stem, the first lateral shoot remains. As a rule, this branch forms under the first fruit cluster. All other sprouts break out of the leaf axils. In this case, the removal of lateral shoots should be carried out at intervals of once every 7 days.
A three-stemmed tomato bush is formed in a similar way. At the same time, a stepson is left under the first flower brush. And exactly the same lateral sprout is left below the first.
IMPORTANT: If you did not manage to break off the extra side shoots, and they have overgrown, then it is still worth removing them. Since, in the process of growth, they will draw on some of the nutrients.
When to pinch
The timing of breaking out stepchildren is individual. Someone recommends starting in early August. If this applies to tomatoes grown in the open field, then this is true. As a rule, those flower brushes that appeared in August will not have time to ripen, and in vain they will draw on food. In this case, the ripening of older and larger fruits formed earlier will be delayed.
When growing tomatoes in greenhouse conditions, the removal of stepsons must be done when new inflorescences appear. And you need to perform this procedure regularly to avoid the above problems.
Thus, the correct pinching of a tomato in a greenhouse allows you to grow not green mass, but a fairly good and high-quality harvest of fruits. Moreover, all tomatoes will be ripe and healthy. If you do not need green mass, and you want to get a consistently good harvest, then remove excess side shoots.
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How to pinch tomatoes correctly in a greenhouse and open ground (video, photo, diagram), which varieties do not require pinning
Gardening concerns begin. The owners of summer cottages are engaged in seedlings of vegetable crops, and it's time to think about how much we know about the proper care of plants from which we expect a bountiful harvest? Today we will talk about how to pinch tomatoes, and why you need to do it.
- 7 Video on the correct pinching of tomatoes
What is pinning and what is it for
Grasshopping is the removal of excess shoots from plants. The tomato bush tends to grow upward and in breadth, and because of this, the root system works to supply the tops with useful substances, instead of paying all attention to the fruits. Therefore, some shoots are separated at a certain point in order to correctly and effectively distribute the plastic substances of the plant between the tomatoes and the leaves that protect them.
Stepsons should be removed when they are still small, from 3 to 5 cm.Do not miss this period, because:
- an overgrown stepson means that the bush has already spent useful substances on its growth;
- after removing the overgrowth, a large wound will remain on the stem.
Tomatoes do not need to be pinned. But in this case, a good harvest will depend not only on proper care, but also on external conditions, and especially on the variety. The bushes will grow rapidly, branches will be pulled out of each sinus and become new stems. Those, in turn, will give new shoots. A large tomato bush rich in greens does not guarantee a large harvest of fruits, more often the opposite.
So that the bush does not grow in breadth and upward, stepchildren should be removed
The need for pinching depends on the variety of tomato. For example, indeterminate varieties such as Shaman F1, tall and able to grow indefinitely, branch very strongly. Determinant and hybrid varieties that do not stretch upwards can also produce many stems (Lyalafa F1, Blagovest F1).
The green mass of the plants will decrease slightly after the fruits appear on the first inflorescences. But they will fill up slowly, since new flowers and an ovary of a couple of dozen tomatoes have already appeared on the bush, which need nutrition. A high yield can be achieved, but the fruits will not grow to the desired size, and it will take longer to wait for them to ripen.
Which variety should you choose?
In our latitudes, gardeners rarely give preference to indeterminate, or tall varieties, choosing mostly undersized ones. This can be attributed to the fear of not being able to cope with growing large bushes. However, when handled well, tall varieties are much more productive. Their advantages include the following points:
- such varieties have high yields;
- when agrotechnical rules are followed, they are less susceptible to late blight disease;
- the fruiting period stretches from mid-summer to mid-autumn, despite the fact that the ripening of low-growing varieties is almost simultaneous, and this is inconvenient for fresh consumption;
- tall varieties are easier to pinch;
- it is easy to work with such bushes, it is easy to harvest from them without bending over;
- the most interesting of the new varieties are the tall ones.
Yes, indeterminate varieties require compulsory pinching. Among the disadvantages is that, in addition to the usual care, such a bush will definitely need an appropriate support and frequent garter. But taking into account the final result - a larger yield - you can simply ignore this feature of growing tomatoes.
Indeterminate tomato varieties yield good yields
Returning to the question of whether it is necessary to pinch tomatoes, personally I say an unequivocal "Yes". It is a mistake to assume that a large green bush will produce many fruits. There can be two options here: either you plant greenery, or you strive for a harvest, and this applies to all vegetable crops. Good results depend on adequate, properly distributed power and lighting.
Please note: the mass of fruits from a bush rarely depends on their number. You can get many small tomatoes, or several large ones. This will not affect the overall yield.
When to do pinching of tomatoes grown in the open field
The term, very important for every gardener who grows tomatoes in the open field, is August 1. By this time, only fruits that have set before this date grow and ripen on the bush. The shoots and inflorescences that have arisen later will waste useful substances that will be needed for the growth and ripening of almost finished tomatoes. To prevent this from happening, you need to get rid of excess sprouts.
Grasshopping is carried out once for the entire period of development of the bush. In the last days of July and at the beginning of August, all stepson shoots are removed on each plant, 2-3 leaves are left over the set fruits and the growth points on the productive shoots are pinched. Of course, it is a pity to pluck the inflorescences that have just appeared, but this is a necessary measure: this way you will save large shoots.
Tomato pickling in the open field
Another way is to remove excess shoots every 10 days. Wherein:
- if the bush is formed into one stem, then only the main shoot is preserved;
- if in two, then a stepson is added to the main shoot from the axil of the leaf under the first inflorescence;
- if in three, the next stepson from below is also added.
First of all, decide how many stems you want to keep on the plant. This may depend directly on the variety of tomatoes.
- If you want to get a high and, most importantly, an early harvest from undersized superdeterminate varieties, then you will need 1-2 stems. In this case, the fruits will ripen on the first 3-5 inflorescences, while 3 inflorescences will form on each stem.
- If you keep 3 stalks, then the number of tomatoes will be much higher, but there will be a lot of green fruit. Inflorescences will develop almost simultaneously, but maturation will slow down.
Plucking the determinant varieties and hybrids correctly
To get an early harvest on determinant and hybrid varieties, which have more inflorescences on the main stem, you need to leave one stem and 2-3 inflorescences. Save a few leaves after the last inflorescence and pinch the growing point. It is not necessary to do this, but in this case, the fruits on all inflorescences may not fully ripen.
If you leave 2 stems with 4 to 8 inflorescences on them, then the tomatoes will ripen on the bush. Determinant and hybrid varieties do not form 3 stems.
Proper care and timely pinching will give you a good harvest of fruits.
If your tomato bush consists of 1-2 stems with 2-4 inflorescences, then the fruits will appear before mid-July. This is almost 2 weeks earlier than if you did not pinch. With this planting pattern, you will get fewer fruits, but there will be more tomatoes ripening on the branch.
Please note: when planting tomatoes, you can place them closer in a row, 25-30 cm from each other. After pinching, productivity will not be affected.
It is known that tomato is a thermophilic plant, and our latitudes are not always pampered by long hot summers. Therefore, breeders took care of breeding varieties that will bring a good harvest in the open field without pinching. These varieties include.