Message on the topic of the Western Caucasus. The Caucasus Mountains are mountains of amazing beauty
The Caucasus is one of the largest mountain systems in the world. It occupies a huge area, and its peaks are the highest in our country - Elbrus, which belongs to the Central Caucasus system, even surpasses the European Mont Blanc. The Western Caucasus is part of the Greater Caucasus and also has interesting characteristics.
Location and composition
The Western Caucasus Mountains are part of the huge Greater Caucasus system, stretching for more than 1 thousand km. The width of this mountainous country can exceed 150 km. The highest mountains of the system are located in the central part of the Caucasus. The mountains of the Western Caucasus lag behind in height, but are distinguished by a high diversity of flora, fauna, and impressive views.
In addition to the Western Caucasus, the Greater Caucasus is also divided into the central and eastern parts. The territory of the Caucasus is located on a huge continental rise, which exceeds the height of all the surrounding plains. The slopes of the mountains are composed of rocks of different ages, from the most ancient to the youngest. Ancient rocks come out where it depends on geological folding processes, mainly in the interior regions of the Caucasus. The outer slopes consist of younger rocks.
The northwestern Caucasus received its current appearance as a result of modern geological processes. Glaciers play a big role in this, covering a significant area and feeding most of the local rivers.
In addition, glaciers contributed to the formation of modern landscapes - thanks to them, such types of formations as trough valleys, cirques, cirques, and moraines appeared in abundance. Some of them are still filled with glaciers, others, located below, may contain glacial lakes with clear water.
Features of the Western Caucasus
The mountains of the Western Caucasus are part of such Russian regions as the republics of Adygea, Karachay-Cherkessia, as well as the Krasnodar Territory. On the territory of this mountain system there are several conservation zones designed to protect rare and endangered species of animals and plants that are found only there or have been preserved from ancient times.
The western part of the North Caucasus is distinguished by an abundance of nival-glacial landscape types created by the passage of glaciers. Often in valleys of this origin there are lakes with crystal clear water. All rivers originating in these mountains are distinguished by the great purity and transparency of their waters, since the amount of solid runoff is minimal.
The Western Caucasus is distinguished not only by the habitat of many species of rare animals and plants, but the very nature of this mountain system amazes with its grandeur and beauty. In these places you can see snow-capped mountains, gigantic trees, fast mountain rivers with impressive waterfalls.
The unification of these republics into one group is due to the commonality geographical location and the kinship of the peoples living in them - Adygeis, Circassians, Kabardians, who occupy mainly foothill spaces. Karachais and Balkars prefer mountainous areas. In addition to these peoples, Russians, Abazas and Nogais live in all republics.
Historically, the natives did not compete in socially useful activities, but complemented each other. The Karachais and Nogais are traditionally engaged in livestock farming, the Circassians and Abazas are traditionally engaged in gardening. The professional orientation of other peoples is less pronounced, although in relation to the Russians it can definitely be said that in these republics they form the basis of the working class and technical intelligentsia.
The aboriginal population living here is divided into two groups of peoples: Abkhaz-Adyghe (belongs to the North Caucasian family) and Turkic (Altai family). The first group includes Kabardins, Adygeis, Circassians, Abazas, the second - Karachais, Balkars, Nogais.
Republic of Adygea located on the left bank of the Kuban and Laba. Adygeis (self-name - Adyge) are settled mainly in the west and east of the Republic. In the XIII-XIV centuries. Some of the Circassians moved to the Terek River basin, and the bulk remained on the Black Sea coast and in the Trans-Kuban region. In the 13th century After stubborn resistance, the Circassians were conquered by the Golden Horde. In the middle of the 16th century. The Adyghe-Kabardinian peoples voluntarily joined Russia. In 1922, the Adygea (Circassian) Autonomous Region was created, in 1925 it was included in the North Caucasus Territory, and in 1928 it became known as the Adygea Autonomous Region. From 1936 to 1993, the Adygea Autonomous Region was part of the Krasnodar Territory; since 1993, the Republic of Adygea was part of the Russian Federation.
Adygea specializes in livestock-grain farming. The grain-tobacco-livestock type of enterprise became widespread. There are specialized farms for growing essential oil crops, hemp and potatoes. The industry is dominated by the processing of agricultural raw materials (cheese-making, oil-processing, meat). Previously exploited oil fields have been depleted.
The capital of the Republic - Maykop - was founded in 1857 as a Russian fortress; at the final stage of the Caucasian War, it served as a military-strategic point in the conquest of Circassia. In modern Maikop, mechanical engineering and the food industry are developed.
Karachay-Cherkess Republic occupies the northern slope of the Greater Caucasus; since ancient times, the ancestors of the Karachais and Circassians lived on this territory. In the XIV-XVI centuries. The Abazas moved here from Abkhazia in the 17th century. from the Azov and Volga regions - Nogais. From the first half of the 19th century. - as part of Russia.
The Karachais (self-name - Karachayls) are related to the Balkars; local mountain tribes, as well as Alans, Bulgarians, and Kipchaks, participated in their formation. Circassians (Adyges) - the general name of the Circassians. Abaza (Abaza) are descendants of a multilingual population that lived on the eastern coast of the Black Sea. Nogai (Nogai) are descendants of Turkic and Mongolian tribes that were part of the ulus of the Golden Horde temnik Nogai, mixed with the Turkic-speaking Polovtsians and adopted their language.
The Karachais live mainly in the southern part of the Republic, and the Circassians, Abazas and Nogais - in the northern.
In 1922, the Karachay-Cherkess Autonomous Region was formed, and in 1926 it was divided into the Karachay Autonomous Region and the Circassian National District. The latter was transformed into an autonomous region within the North Caucasus Territory of the RSFSR in 1928. In 1943, the Karachay Autonomous Region was abolished. In 1957, the Karachay-Cherkess Autonomous Region was formed as part of the Stavropol Territory. Karachay-Cherkessia has existed as a republic within the Russian Federation since 1993.
The economy of the Republic is represented by meat and dairy cattle breeding, sheep breeding, and grain farming. Sugar beets, sunflowers, vegetables and fruits are also cultivated. The cities have developed dairy and meat industries. The timber, mining, cement and chemical industries are based on local resources. Recreational resources are used for the development of mountain tourism, mountaineering and resort farming (Teberda, Dombay, Arkhyz).
Kabardino-Balkarian Republic also located on the northern slope of the Greater Caucasus. The Kabardians, one of the branches of the Adyghe tribe, separated here from the rest of their fellow tribesmen in the 11th century, and by the 14th century. formed separate people. The Balkar people were formed as a result of the mixing of North Caucasian and Alan tribes with the Bulgarians and Kipchaks who settled in the foothills of the Caucasus. At the beginning of the 13th century. In connection with the invasion of the Mongol-Tatars, the ancestors of the Balkars, after a long struggle, moved to the mountains. Kabarda and Balkaria became part of Russia at different times: the first - on a voluntary basis in 1557, the annexation of the second was completed by 1827.
In 1922, the Kabardino-Balkarian Autonomous Region was formed, in 1936 it was transformed into the Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic. Since 1993, Kabardino-Balkaria has been part of the Russian Federation as a republic. Today Kabardino-Balkaria is a producer of tungsten-molybdenum products, artificial diamonds and abrasive products made from them. In addition, mechanical engineering, the building materials industry, food and light industries are developed. The leading branches of agriculture include grain growing, industrial horticulture, vegetable growing, and in livestock farming - dairy farming.
The capital of the Republic is Nalchik, since 1808 - administrative center Kabardy, residence of the Kabardian princes. In 1817, a Russian fortress was built here, at which in 1838 a military settlement was founded, which later (1871) became the center of the Nalchik district of the Terek region. In 1921, Nalchik received the status of a city - the center of the Kabardian, and since 1922 - the Kabardino-Balkarian autonomous region; in 1936-1991 - the capital of the Kabardino-Balkarian Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic (in 1944-1957 - the Kabardian Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic). Since 1993 - a republic within the Russian Federation.
Region of Russia: Krasnodar Territory, Republic of Adygea, Republic of Karachay-Cherkessia
Square: 299 thousand hectares
Status: inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1999
Component objects: Caucasian State Natural Biosphere Reserve with a buffer zone (354340, Krasnodar Territory, 354340, Sochi, K. Marx St., 8); natural park "Bolshoy Thach" (385000, Republic of Adygea, Maykop, Pervomaiskaya, 197); natural monuments “Buiny Ridge”, “Upper Reaches of the Tsitsa River” and “Upper Reaches of the Pshekha and Pshekhashkha Rivers”.
The western part of the Greater Caucasus has no equal in the diversity and preservation of flora and fauna not only in the Caucasus region, but also among other mountainous regions of Europe and Western Asia. It is home to many endangered rare, endemic and relict species of plants and animals. Only here the almost unchanged habitat of the bison, Caucasian red deer, Western Caucasian aurochs, chamois, Caucasian subspecies of brown bear, and wolf has been preserved.
A unique project to restore the population of the Caucasian bison, destroyed in the 20s of the last century, has been successfully implemented in the Caucasian Nature Reserve. Fortunately, hybrid individuals that carry the hereditary properties of the Caucasian form have been preserved in captivity. These animals, belonging to the so-called Belovezhskaya-Caucasian line, formed the basis of the modern bison population of the reserve.
The project lasted about fifty years and now the reserve is practically the only habitat in the world for the mountain bison. Outside this territory, it has been almost completely exterminated by poachers.
Ancient and modern mountain glaciers played a major role in the formation of the relief of the Western Caucasus. Trough valleys, tarns, and moraines are common here. In the limestone massifs of the northern part of the territory, subject to karst processes, numerous caves and cavities have formed, including some of the longest and deepest in Russia (up to 600 meters in depth and 15 kilometers in length). They form complex underground systems with rivers, lakes and waterfalls.
On outcrops rocks You can discover the most interesting remains of extinct organisms. Thus, the valley of the Belaya River (the left tributary of the Kuban), thanks to numerous finds of giant ammonite shells (sometimes more than 1 m in diameter), gained worldwide fame.
The territory is rich in picturesque objects: powerful waterfalls, pointed mountain peaks (up to 3360 meters), wild rivers with clear water, clear lakes, huge trees (fir trees up to 70 meters high and more than 2 meters in diameter), rare plants (orchids) and much more.
The Western Caucasus is part of the Greater Caucasus mountain system, located west of the meridional line passing through Mount Elbrus. The part of the Western Caucasus from Anapa to Mount Fisht is characterized by low-mountain and mid-mountain relief (the so-called North-Western Caucasus), further east to Elbrus the mountain system takes on a typical alpine appearance with numerous glaciers and high-mountain landforms.
In a narrower understanding, which is followed in mountaineering and tourism literature, only part of the Main Caucasus Range (MCR) from Mount Fisht to Elbrus is considered to be the Western Caucasus. Administratively, this region belongs to Karachay-Cherkessia (Russia), Krasnodar Territory (Russia) and the Republic of Abkhazia (Georgia). On the territory of the Western Caucasus there is the Caucasus Nature Reserve, which is protected by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
The core of the Western Caucasus mountain system is the GKH. The chain of massifs in the numerous northern spurs of the GKH, approximately 20 km from it, is called the Forward (Lateral) Ridge. Even further north, parallel to the GKH, stretches the Rocky Ridge. To the south of the GKH there are the Kodori, Abkhaz (Chkhalta), Bzyb and Gagra ranges.
The Western Caucasus is largely a forested mid-mountain region. The GKH line in the middle of the area reaches the forest border (2000-2200 m above sea level), near Mount Chugush (3240 m) it goes beyond 3000 m, and reaches its highest point in the eastern part (Mount Dombay-Yolgen - 4046 m).
A characteristic feature of the Western Caucasus is the combination of lush forests along the valleys and mountain slopes with pointed peaks and towering peaks covered with snow. Many glaciers here descend almost to the forest line. In stone bowls carved out by ancient glaciers there are many transparent blue and green lakes surrounded by flowering alpine meadows, mossy gloomy rocks and screes. Among them are the famous Lake Ritsa, high-mountain lakes Klukhorskoye, Kardyvach, Mtsra.
In the limestone massifs (Kodori, Bzyb, Gagra, Skalisty ranges) various forms of karst are widely developed: deep chasms, underground rivers, caves, sinkholes, karras. On the southern slope there are many outlets of underground water: Gegsky waterfall, Mchisht, Blue Lake, Aapsta.
The rivers of the northern slope of the GKH belong to the Kuban basin, which starts from the Elbrus glaciers and in the upper reaches is called Uluukam. The largest of them are Uzunkol, Uchkulan, Daut, Teberda, Aksaut, Marukha, Zelenchuk, Bolshaya Laba, Malaya Laba. The main rivers of the southern slope are Nenskra, Kodor, Chkhalta, Bzyb, Mzymta. The water in the rivers is transparent and has a bluish or greenish tint.
Of all the mountainous regions of the former USSR, the Western Caucasus is distinguished by the greatest natural contrasts - from the glaciers of the alpine highlands to the subtropics. The peculiarity of the climate is high humidity.
The Western Caucasus is the oldest and well-developed mountain tourism region. Both novice travelers and sports groups will find routes here. The simplest paths lie in the relatively low western part, starting from Arkhyz, where, both through the GKH and through its spurs, there are many passes of 1A and 1B difficulty categories (mostly scree and snow). This area is most suitable for non-category travel and hiking I-II categories difficulties.
The eastern section of the GKH with adjacent spurs (Gwandra region) is characterized by passes of 1B and 2A difficulty categories different types(snow, ice, rock). Here, as in Arkhyz, there are rich opportunities for hiking of medium (up to category III) difficulty.
The main ridge in the Aksaut-Dombay area is relatively inaccessible. Most of the passes here belong to 2A-3A difficulty categories. The northern side of the passes is usually snowy and ice, the southern side is rocky. The southern slope is steep. The intersections of the GKH in this section can form the key elements of hikes of IV-V categories of difficulty.
There are roads along almost all the gorges of the Western Caucasus, and there is a bus service to a number of points (from Mineralnye Vody, Cherkessk, Karachaevsk, Zelenchukskaya, Sukhumi, Gudauta, Adler). There are trails to the upper valleys and pastures along the ridges.
In the mountains of the Western Caucasus there are many historical monuments of interest to tourists: Stone Age sites; in the meadows there are numerous traces of ancient shepherding - the remains of cats, paddocks, trails; along the ancient trade routes there are chains of ruins of medieval fortresses and temples, mainly from the Alanian period and the heyday of Apsilia; a number of places are associated with the events of the Caucasian War (19th century), the stay of prominent Russian cultural figures in the Caucasus; the passes of the Main Range contain evidence of the battles of the Great Patriotic War.
The western part of the Greater Caucasus in terms of the diversity of flora and fauna and their preservation has no equal not only in the Caucasus region, but also among other mountainous regions of Europe and Western Asia. This is an area where a large number of endangered rare, endemic and relict species of plants and animals are concentrated. It is especially important that the little-changed habitat of the most vulnerable large mammals has been preserved here: bison, Caucasian red deer, Western Caucasian aurochs, chamois, Caucasian subspecies of brown bear, wolf, etc.
The Caucasus Nature Reserve is practically the only habitat in the world for the mountain bison; outside this territory it is almost completely exterminated by poachers.
The area of the Western Caucasus, distinguished by its pronounced altitudinal zones (deciduous forests, coniferous forests, crooked forests, mountain meadows, nival belt), is recognized as one of the most extensive mountain forest reserves in Europe. Forests occupy at least 60% of the area here. These are beech, oak, maple, hornbeam, chestnut, fir, spruce and other species. In total, more than 3 thousand species are noted in the local flora, half of which are vascular plants, with every third of them defined as endemic, and every tenth as a relict of previous eras. About 250 species of birds have been recorded in the protected area, including rare predators nesting here - golden eagle, bearded vulture, osprey, griffon vulture, etc.
In general, more than 6 thousand species of plants and animals have been recorded in the Western Caucasus, which makes it a unique center of biodiversity not only on the scale of the Caucasus, but throughout Europe. At the same time, many species are recognized as rare and endangered and are listed in the Red Book of Russia, and some in the International Red Book.
Arkhyz
The village of Arkhyz is located in the southwestern part of the Karachay-Cherkess Republic, 52 km south of the regional center - the village of Zelenchukskaya, with which it is connected by an asphalt road.
In recent Soviet times, this area was a real Mecca for mountain tourists and novice climbers. This was facilitated by such factors as easy accessibility in the transport sense, simple routes, beauty and diversity of landscapes. "Ariu kyz" translated from Karachay means a beautiful girl. To be even more precise - a gorge beautiful girls. There are several more approaches to deciphering this word. So, for example, on old maps the sources of the Bolshoy Zelenchuk River were called “Irkiz”, which is close to the Turkic names of rivers - Irgyz is in the Volga region and in Kazakhstan.
The village is located in a wide intermountain basin at an altitude of 1450-1500 meters. This place is called the Karachay Five Rivers, because here, from the cold waters of the mountain rivers Kizgych, Psysh, Sofia and Arkhyz, Bolshoy Zelenchuk with amazingly clear blue-green water is formed.
A small Karachay village founded here in 1922 was named “Old Dwelling,” but it did not catch on and a few years later the village began to be called Arkhyz. Later, this name was assigned to an entire mountainous region, which has now become a serious “rival” of such famous tourist centers as Teberda and Dombay.
The Arkhyz region is the northern slopes of the Main Caucasus Range. The region extends from the Laba River valley in the west to the Marukh mountain range in the east. From here it’s a stone’s throw to the Black Sea; in a straight line it’s 70 kilometers away.
From the south, above the Arkhyzoskalnaya wall, whitened with gray hair, rises the Main Caucasus Range. Its heights here reach almost four kilometers. The highest point of Arkhyz is Mount Psysh (3790 m). There is another beauty in this mountainous region - peak Sofia (3637 m).
All 60 glaciers of Arkhyz are located on the Main and Sofia ridges above 2700 meters.
The climate of Arkhyz is milder than in neighboring valleys. The Abishir-Akhuba ridge, having fenced off the upper part of the Bolshoy Zelenchuk valley from the north with a high (3000m) barrier, blocked access to cold winds there. The wide valley unfolded along the meridian is well illuminated by the sun (280 sunny days). Summer in Arkhyz is not hot. In the vicinity of the village, the average daily temperature in July and August is +15.3°C (up to +25°C during the day). Winter is mild and snowy. The average temperature in January is -5.4°C. Autumn is usually dry and warm until November.
The area is heavily dissected by a dense network of rivers and nameless streams. The main water artery is the high-water Bolshoi Zelenchuk, about 170 kilometers long (from the confluence of the Psysh and Arkhyz rivers to the confluence with the Kuban River). The most abundant tributary of the Bolshoi Zelenchuk is the Psysh with its tributaries: Sofia, Amanauz, Belaya, Kyzyl-Su, Koshevaya. The tributaries Rechepsta and Dukka flow into the Arkhyz River. The latter receives the waters of Malaya Dukka and Temir-Kulak. Malyi Kizgych, Bugoy-Chat, Chigordali and others flow into Kizgych.
The vegetation of the Arkhyz region is very diverse. There are more than 140 species of trees and shrubs. The Arkhyz forest is dominated by pine. Surprisingly slender and tall trees give everything around a stern and sedate appearance. In the upper reaches of Kizgych, a unique area of old fir forest has been preserved, which amazes with the power of giant trees and primeval beauty. Kizgych firs reach 60 meters in height, one and a half meters in girth, and their age is estimated at many centuries. Some specimens live up to 700 years. This section of the forest is the remnant of those forest areas, which in past centuries dominated the North Caucasus. The Arkhyz forest is a valuable gift of nature. Relict plants of the Tertiary period have been preserved here: Caucasian fir, spruce, yew, etc.
Undoubtedly, Arkhyz is one of the most interesting corners of nature in the Caucasus. But oddly enough, this wonderful mountainous area is still to some extent a “blank spot” for tourists, climbers and skiers.
Ak-Ayry pass
The Ak-Ayry pass has a difficulty category of 1B, the height of the pass is 3300 m, the character is snowy and rocky. The pass is located in the Sofia ridge northeast of the Nadezhda peak (the easternmost of the saddles) and connects the valleys of the Ak-Ayra (a tributary of the Sofia River) and Chuchkhur (a tributary of the Kizgych) rivers.
From the Glacier Farm tract in the Sofia Valley we cross over logs to the other side and begin to gain altitude. The slope is not very steep. After about 45 minutes of climbing, we reach the next clearing. The climb becomes more difficult. From a large open clearing you can see sheep's foreheads with Ak-Ayry waterfalls falling from them. The path begins on the right along the way; it goes around the sheep's foreheads on the right. First we cross a small tributary, then we gain about 100 m, ending up at the level of the waterfalls. The trail branches - the right path leads to the Stolichny (Bash-Jol) and Irkiz passes, the left path leads to the Ak-Ayry circus. Having climbed quite steeply for another fifty meters, the trail sharply goes to the left, traversing the slope along a shelf above the waterfalls. This is followed by a fairly long ascent along a dry riverbed, leading to the Spartak overnight camps - a green, flat clearing approximately 50 m in diameter. From here the trail leads to a scree and gets lost. The path is marked with tours. We rise, climbing onto the scree on the starboard side, and go out to the Ak-Aira circus.
Before takeoff, it is best to walk along the glacier - it is open and unbroken. The takeoff is flat at first (20° compacted stable very fine scree), then it becomes steeper, the scree becomes unstable. You should not climb head-on; it is better to go through the couloir to the right after about 100 m of ascent after increasing the steepness of the slope. We go out onto the rocks on the starboard side - it’s much safer and more convenient. We climb another 100 meters along the rocks. Then, on the last part of the takeoff, we have to return to the scree. Here it is very mobile, of a conglomerate type. We reach the saddle. The ascent takes approximately 3 hours. The descent is faster, but not easier, since it is the same scree, overlooking the snowfield and then onto the closed glacier. The glacier smoothly turns into a long and rather gentle snow tongue with a smooth slope along which you can move on a glider. Then, for another half hour, along the traverse path on the right along the grassy slope, we reach the Green Lakes, where there are good sites for spending the night. Next, the descent is first along the banks of the lakes, then steeply along the bed of the stream or along it, then along the horizontal section of the valley along a path that constantly runs along the orographically right bank of the Chuchkhur River. At the end of the horizontal section on the right along the path, the path is blocked by a ridge-spur on the starboard side. The trail goes through it with a climb. After descending from the ridge, a zone of open forest begins, the steepness of the slope gradually increases. The trail gets lost at times; the general recommendation is to look for the trail on the right side of the clearings. The last section of the descent is very difficult. Having got out of the forest into the grassy thickets of the bank of the Kizgych-Bash River, we go downstream and ford the Chuchkhur River. We follow a very powerful path along the Devil's Mill tract and come out to the flood of the Kizgych River. Here you can ford early in the morning.
Poachers Pass
The Poachers Pass has a difficulty category of 1A, the height of the pass is 2890 m, the nature is scree. The pass is located in the Arkasara ridge and connects the valleys of the Dukka and Bolshaya Laba rivers. There is no direct descent to the Bolshaya Laba; the trail descends to its tributary - the Burnaya River.
From the Bolshaya Laba valley we climb along the path along the Burnaya River to the shepherds’ camp on the right bank of the river (2100 m), where it is possible to spend the night at the edge of the forest. The trail to Dukka Pass departs here. Further, a path leads to the sources of the Burnaya River, along which after 3 km we come to a transverse moraine ridge. Behind it is a plain that was the bottom of a glacial lake (2200 m). Higher up the valley branches into two gorges. The left one will lead to the Dorbun pass (1A) and to the Belaya River, to the Duritsky pass (1A) and to Amanauz; right - to the Vorontsov-Velyaminov glacier and Poachers Pass.
It is necessary to cross the plain with the river in order to get out into the gloomy gorge to the right of its source. At first there will be a steep climb to a rocky ledge overgrown with rhododendron. Below there is a stream beating in a narrow slot, above there are rocks with trails of scree. Ahead in the rocky massif two depressions are visible: the Poachers Pass (1A), and to the right - a circus with a glacier named after the famous Soviet astronomer who discovered it, corresponding member of the USSR Academy of Sciences B. A. Vorontsov-Velyaminov, and the Vorontsov-Velyaminov Pass (1B ).
The last section of the climb to the pass is the most difficult: the slope of the pass is steep (about 30°). First we go straight, crossing the snowfield, along a large unstable scree. Then the trail goes to the left up along a smaller, grass-covered “loose patch” and takes a traverse to the pass (another 2 hours). You can also go head-on if your health allows...
From the Poachers Pass (this name stuck since the time when poachers who hunted aurochs and bears entered the Amanauz gorge from the Bolshaya Laba through a “secret” pass) a completely unexpected picture opens up after passing through the green valleys. Sharp ridges pierce the sky, Przysz dominates everything. Glaciers, snowfields and ribbons of waterfalls hang from the rocky cliffs. Silent vast world. Without coming up here, you will not know about the existence of such Arkhyz. The views that unfold on the descent from the pass are among the most striking pictures of the Arkhyz highlands.
A short direct descent (within the confines of the pass) leads into a hollow with a lake carved out by an ancient glacier. A stream flows out of the lake, which immediately breaks off from the “sheep’s foreheads.” You need to go around the cliff to the left along gentle terraces past huge rocky gates through which one of the largest glaciers in the area slides - the Amanauz glacier. Above its snow fields you can see the saddle of the pass of the same name (2A). To the left in the ridge rises the Amanauz peak (3530 m).
The route passes significantly above the glacial tongue and the stream escaping from under it. The stream runs down a narrow canyon, the passage through which is quite dangerous. You can go down to the lake near the tongue of the Amanauz glacier along gently sloping ridges, snowfields and grassy rocks to the left of the lake, but the main trail along the left slope 1.5 km from the pass turns left and soon leads out over the spur. This is a great place for viewing (2650m). On areas covered with thick grass, you can sit comfortably and see the gorge of the Amanauz River from a thousand-meter height. Mount Przysz is visible from the base to the top (2 km vertically). The trail crosses a spur and descends into the adjacent side valley along a steep grassy slope. After the niche with the lake, you need to follow the drying up rocky bed of the watercourse. Below, among the subalpine tall grass, on the banks of a clear stream, you can pitch tents (height - 2350 m). They also descend here after passing the Duritsky Pass (1A). The descent into the Amanauz River gorge runs along the stream. At the place where it falls off the rocky ledge, you need to cross to the left bank and go to the pine trees. Then you should go around the rocks above the stream on the right. The descent to the bottom of the gorge ends along the ridge of an old moraine overgrown with crooked forest. Ahead, a fir forest turns black, behind it, in a light haze, stretches the wall of the Sofia Range.
There are 2 km left to Psysh. A good trail leads along the bank of the Amanauz River to Arkhyz (5-7 hours of walking).
Vorontsov-Velyaminov pass
The Vorontsov-Velyaminov pass has a difficulty category of 1B, the height of the pass is 3050 m, the nature is snow-talus. The pass is located in the spur of the Arkasar ridge and connects the Vorontsov-Velyaminov (Burnaya River, right tributary of the Bolshaya Laba) and Azimba (Azimba River, right tributary of the Bolshaya Laba) glaciers.
The path to the pass along the Burnaya River valley coincides with the route to the Poachers Pass.
The ascent to the Vorontsov-Velyaminov Pass from the Burnaya River valley takes place along a snowfield (steepness of about 25°), blocking the river along a rocky ridge; lunch and overnight stay are possible at the top of the rocky ridge. Then the ascent continues along a non-steep snowfield with moraine outcrops. On the last moraines you need to form bundles. The exit to the rock massif is made on the right in the direction of travel. At the top there are sites for overnight stays and water. Next, you should climb in bundles along a gentle (about 15°) slope to the pass. At the pass there are several equipped sites for overnight stays.
From the farm, located at the confluence of Dukka and Rechespa, you need to walk straight along the road for 4 km to the shepherd's hut. Here you can cross the river along the masonry. There is no further road; a path leads to the pass. From here it is a 2 hour walk to the pass. It does not have a saddle characteristic of passes and is a large alpine meadow located at the junction of the Abishir-Akhub and Arkasar ridges. On the right, near a lonely fir, there is an obelisk. Further the path leads through the meadow past the sheepfold and after 30 minutes leads to a descent into the valley of the Phiya River.
Reserve " Western Caucasus"covers an area of almost 175 square kilometers in the western part of the Greater Caucasus Range in the upper reaches of the Belaya and Malaya Laba rivers, where the conditional natural and climatic border of the Eurasian continent passes.
The central zone (almost 280 thousand hectares) is formed by the territories of Karachay-Cherkessia, Krasnodar Territory and Adygea. They are adjacent to the high-mountainous landscapes of Bolshoy Tkhach, the upper reaches of the Pshekha and Pshekhashkha rivers, the Buiny Ridge, and the upper reaches of Tsitsa. The landscape structure of the Western Caucasus is created by several parallel mountain ranges stretching from northwest to southeast. The elevation difference varies from 250 meters to 3600 meters above sea level. The highest peaks: Akaragvarta, Tsakhoa, Chugush.
Within the Western Caucasus Nature Reserve there are about 80 small glaciers, 130 mountain lakes of various sizes, ages and origins (the largest are Inpsi, Kardyvach, Bezmolvya). The rivers of the northern part of the reserve flow into the bed of the Kuban and out into the Sea of Azov (Bolshaya Laba, Belaya, Malaya Laba, Zakan, Damhurst). Rivers on the southern slopes of the Western Caucasus flow straight into the Black Sea (Mzymta, Khosta, Sochi, Shakhe).
The territories of the Western Caucasus are located at the junction of temperate and humid subtropical climate zones. The climate of the southern foothills and the coastal zone of the Black Sea is subtropical, and cold air masses coming from the north are delayed by mountain peaks, resulting in precipitation in mountain gorges. The air temperature depends on the altitude above sea level and drops by half a degree Celsius for every 100 meters of rise.
Vegetation cover, like the type of soil, changes from one to another as you climb uphill (descent). Foothill part of Sochi national park, stretching from Psou to the Ashe River, is characterized by an abundance of oak and hornbeam groves and chestnut. The uppermost zone of Sochi Park (from 500 to 1500 meters) is formed by fir, spruce and beech forests. At an altitude of 2 thousand meters, the spruce forest gives way to subalpine vegetation pine forest. Another 300 meters of height form open spaces of rhododendron thickets, birch and willow groves of subalpine meadows. The kingdom of alpine meadows stretches up to 3 thousand meters. The closer to the ice caps of mountain peaks, the poorer the vegetation, the lower the temperature and the thicker the air.
The flora of the reserve includes more than one and a half thousand plant species, 17 of which come from these places (hogweed). A third of the flora and fauna of the Western Caucasus is endemic and relict (endangered). Several types of tree-like vines grow in the forests of the subalpine zone (ivies, wild grapes, honeysuckle, nightshade and others).
Animal world The Western Caucasus is extremely diverse. Among the local inhabitants there are many listed in the Red Books. The most numerous group of the reserve's population are rodents and small species of animals (badgers, nocks, otters). Artiodactyls (bison, deer, roe deer, chamois, aurochs, wild boars) are slightly less common. The borders of the Western Caucasus and the Sochi Park in particular serve as an important transit point on the route of migrating migratory birds. The waters of mountain rivers are inhabited by more than two dozen species of river trout.